It's a surreal place to visit: you can go from the shiny Inner Harbor full of white hipsters and convention-goers shopping at the flagship Under Armour store to an area that looks like it suffered a recent civil war -- roofs collapsing, infrastructure crumbling, sudden change in what stores are open and whether they have bars on the windows -- in about 20 minutes. If you're me, someone will be kind enough to tell you that someone got shot at this bus stop last week (implication: maybe you'd better turn around). Poverty and lead paint in Baltimore are deeply entwined with (though not at all synonymous with) race.