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I tried Cypher and Gremlin when working on smallish graph of about 3M nodes and 20M edges a few years ago

Back then both were pretty rough, Gremlin looked more polished but wasn't really (most promised features in the documentation were not working just yet).

What has changed since?

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Apache TinkerPop3 has been in development for 2 years. It is a complete rewrite since TinkerPop2. It was just released in July 2015. Its light years ahead of Gremlin2.

http://tinkerpop.incubator.apache.org/

The two big things:

1. Gremlin language is much cleaner and easier to use.

2. It supports OLTP graph databases (e.g. Titan/Neo4j/Stardog) and OLAP graph processors (e.g. Hadoop/Spark/Giraph).

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