The thought experiment of whether you can measure directional gravity from freely falling reference frames using only gravitation is more interesting.
>> You can only measure a gravity gradient by comparing it to another force
This is inaccurate. A measurement of tidal forces only requires the ability to measure space and time between events/particles.
>> They can't see redshift because they can't see photons at all.
Gravitational redshifts affect all clocks, not just photons: it's a statement about spacetime, not literal redshifts. All pieces of matter are clocks ticking at the Compton frequency, so DM particles can be used as clocks to measure redshift.
>> dark matter is simply energy, there is no extra particle
I feel that 'simply energy' would be something like dark energy, causing spacetime expansion. You really do need mass for gravitational attraction, and what we measure is gravitational attraction.