Why Dealership Used Cars Cost More
blog.instamotor.com
blog.instamotor.com
It wasn't uncommon to come in at 7 AM and close up at 11 PM after dealing with idiots that demanded to drive 5 cars and then get kicked out because they had 350 FICOs and wanted a new SUV with 0 down. The majority of people had no idea what kind of car they needed or what they could afford.
The things this guy doesn't point out is that dealerships will work with banks to get deals financed that otherwise might not be, they provide loaner cars, make sure people have insurance, and they deal with title/registration paperwork that is a huge hassle. They'll also take just about any trade-in if it runs (and some that barely run) and dispose of them (something that could cost you).
Vehicles are the highest value or 2nd highest value purchase for most people. You definitely need to know your stuff when purchasing a car, and I'm totally against predatory dealership tactics, but after working in the industry I don't have faith that the average american can navigate the myriad of vehicles, processes, paperwork, and other tasks that go into buying/selling cars directly. I also have a hard time trusting an individual seller after seeing the completely wasted cars we took in on trades.
The majority probably make around 50 K, but they definitely have to stay here late.
Although Saturdays are mandatory, every dealership ive ever heard of still offers two days off a week. A lot of guy's i know come in for deliveries or whatever, but they do have two days off a week.
Sorry for the rambling.
http://www.payscale.com/research/US/Job=Sales_Consultant,_Au...
The day to day average would then be a lot higher than the per person average.
What I discovered was that car max typically priced their cars 2-3K above what I could negotiate with another dealer. I also discovered if you want a used honda don't go to a honda dealer all the time, try going to a porche dealer or other high end dealers that don't want those hondas in their inventory at the end of the month. Also be willing to walk away
Summary:
1. Goto car-max to get the max price of the vehicle and deduct 2-3k from it and try to find another dealer that will negotiate that price.
2. Goto to high end dealers for non high end cars.
3. Try to go towards the end of the month so I have been told by people in the business but I'm not sure on this.
4. Most importantly don't be afraid to walk away . Last car I purchased I walked away then the dealer called me back a couple of weeks later and I got them for what I wanted to pay. This really shouldn't be an issue as most cars are not one of a kind and can be found at anytime for purchase.
5. If the car is a hot model than all the above will likely be negated and they will be willing to not put to much time into selling you the car (negotiate)
6. Buy at the end of the year nov-dec timeframe. This is because once January hits the car will be officially a year older.
Hence the dealer will work harder to sell you that 2014 or 2015 model before it becomes 2016 and it gets tainted officially as last years or 2 years ago model.
7. Try to go by yourself and not with with your spouse or significant other , so you are the final word.
Cars are built on an assembly line. Yes, there may be one on the lot that is exactly what you want, but that dealer is probably getting 6 identical models over the next few months. Being able to walk away is a must.
All this haggling and negotiating is great when it means 4% or 5% off MSRP for a car, free oil changes, etc. It sucks when you want a hot, very in-demand car that is trending 8-10% above MSRP and still has an 8-month wait.
I actually had a dealer act like I was crazy when I laughed at the price of their stock Jeep wrangler in the 35K range. I had a couple jeeps before and I love jeeps but I'm also aware that they are not good vehicles for everyday usage and they are not very reliable . They are fun to drive and and off road with, but there is no way that I would justifying a 35K jeep for off-roading or weekend getaway vehicle.
Apparently others do and are willing to pay that 35K for it, so I'm out of luck in purchasing a Jeep as they don't need to negotiate.
So dealing with a dealer will be pointless for a 1-3 year old jeep.The only hope is to buy from an individual in need of getting rid of it, but even then that will be tricky because they likely owe more than its worth or what you would be willing to pay.
So my options are to buy an much older paid off jeep from an individual or possibly look at other alternative jeep like vehicles.
Also luckily for me I have a friend with a dealers license that allows me to buy at auction. So that will likely be my method of purchase when I'm ready again next time around.
That being said, $35k does seem like a lot for a Jeep :)
In my view and in my post I used overpay for what I considered what I'm not willing to pay for a product. Hindsight I could have used a better word or could have used a better description.
Like you I thought 35K was insane for a jeep wrangler but apparently many are willing to get loans for 7 or 10 year to pay for that 35K jeep. Those peeps are ruining it for the rest of us ;-)
Although, if you have a willing partner, you can play good cop/bad cop with them.
One partner wants the car, but you don't. The salesperson has to be the intermediary, and make concessions to get you on board.
It makes it very easy not to be interested in whatever the salesperson offers. "$1000 off? I don't care: I don't want the care."
Once the salesperson saw that one of us wanted the car they were more hesitant to negotiate because in the end they knew one of us wanted the vehicle. Since we were in a relationship they new that carried some weight.
In addition we also discovered that many dealers were less willing to negotiate with a female than a male as they assumed the female would be a more impulsive buyer.
No matter how wrong they were to assume that they still believed and negotiated with that mentality.
Hence what we concluded our best method to purchase a car was:
1. Select the car ahead that we BOTH wanted or my WIFE wanted: via online methods or car shopping late night when nobody is at the dealer.
2. Goto to the dealer by myself and negotiate directly with them without my wife being present. Hence they knew if I walked away there was nobody else there to talk me back into buying the car. Hence they took me more serious.
I typically also buy 1 or 2 year old low mileage models at the end of the year around nov-dec timeframe. This is because once January hits the car will be officially a year older.
Hence the dealer will work harder to sell you that 2014 or 2015 model before it becomes 2016 and it gets tainted officially as last years or 2 years ago model.
>All the cars you see on the lot? They are owned by the dealership itself.
This, at least for the dealerships I work with, is almost never the case. For independent dealerships the only cars on the lot that they actually own are previous trade-ins. The majority are bought at auctions on credit (called "floor planning" in the industry). These are short term lines of credit that usually mature in 90 or 180 days. If the lot is productive, the unit will be long sold by then and the line of credit paid off, only to be used again. Depending on the number of sales made in the past year, the credit line with the floor plan company fluctuates.
Often, the same company (like Manheim in the US) owns the auction AND the floor plan financier. Cox Enterprises (Manheim's parent company) and KAR Auction Services in particular seem to be buying up smaller businesses in the industry left and right not unlike your big players in Silicon Valley. My company has fielded offers from both in the past, but our owner won't budge.
But I digress...the only other thing in the article that seems off to me is the emphasis on Certified Pre-Owned vehicles. Almost every dealer I work with will budge on that price. Making the sale is more important than a few extra dollars, in most cases. Plus, independent dealerships have a harder time with even getting vehicles certified, as opposed to the franchise stores that already have certified mechanics on site.
Unless you are saying the dealer can return cars they bought at auction, I don't see what difference the floor-planning makes to the ownership of the car. When purchased off the dealer's lot, I presume the dealer's name will appear on the title as the seller.
It's not uncommon for a dealer to buy a vehicle at auction without getting the title at the time of the auction purchase, floor it, then sell it with outside financing before the title is even in hand.
So the title essentially jumps from the auction seller to the outside finance company of the end buyer at some point after the time of the sale. The dealer never actually spends any money out of pocket for the vehicle, since it was floor planned.
Having a car last on your lot longer than the floor plan term usually means that it was a bad fit for your customer base (like stocking luxury cars in farm country) or you don't have good salesmen. Almost all sales are finalized before the floor plan term is up, so there is no out of pocket cost to the dealer up front.
Dealers can return vehicles to the auction in some cases (for a fee), but usually that's only in the case of the auction itself being misleading (not disclosing prior major repair, salvage title status, or things like that).
"Our credit lines are accepted at over 1,000 auctions and accessible with other inventory sources throughout the U.S." and "Use your AFC line of credit to finance customer trades, dealer-to-dealer transactions and purchases made from auctions, leasing companies and other sources." This is how these services are being used.
And I'm not saying they won't eventually have to account for that inventory financially, but the process moves so quickly (at least at successful dealerships) that the dealer's bank statement will probably never even take the hit for the vehicle, because it's acquired and sold within weeks or days if they're buying the right inventory for their customers. The ones who aren't go out of business.
You're conflating independent used dealerships with franchise new dealerships who also happen to sell used cars.
I've recently bought 2 cars (first time through dealers), in all my calculations, over the life of the car, new or CPO came out significantly cheaper not even factoring in the nicer experience than trying to buy a Craigslist car or going to gravel lot dealers. I can't believe I just defended car dealers either, but, man, this article came across as terrible.
Transparency has helped but not as much as it could.
With used, it's more complicated although transparency with things like Carfax help there as well. (As of course does certified preowned even though, of course, you'll pay something for that.)
In my experience, NEW will never (or almost never) come out cheaper than used, there is too much depreciation in the first 2 years. CPOs are generally good values if you negotiate for it. Best value is a 2-4 year car with moderate miles in a model that has high reliability scores, private party of course.
How'd you do your calculations + assumptions?
I've never worked in car sales but a classmate from my undergrad sold at a new and used Lexus dealership for about a year and a half immediately after graduation. Even back in the 2007-2010 time period, there was so much information going around that the vast majority of his deals were "minis," or sales where he got the minimum commission of $150 (I've heard it as low as $75 depending on dealership and make).
Car sales is sort of like a startup where if you grind for a while and build up a base you can make a pretty good upper-middle lifestyle. $150-200k a year is uncommon but not unattainable if you're naturally charismatic and can put a lot of volume through your pipeline, especially if you can move into the high-end aspirational market (e.g. Porsche, Aston-Martin, etc). It's also totally possible (likely even) to do $125k one year and $30k the next, and a lot of people can't handle that high level of volatility.
I really enjoy cars from a design perspective and I really enjoy business, if I had any sales ability at all it'd probably be a good part-time job.
It's also pretty much impossible 'part-time'. Most people don't buy during their first visit. We worked 80 hour weeks because if you missed your client when they came back to buy it was somebody else's deal (or a halfsie).
From what I understood from the older guys, it used to a be a solid middle class gig with a free car, good hours, benefits, other perks, etc..but most new car dealerships are now consolidated countrywide conglomerates and the sales jobs are typical shitty retail with no time off and constant turnover.
Management and the finance guys still make good money but they work even more hours and you have to sit on a damn car lot 24/7.
To tell the truth, I lost all interest in cars after working on a lot. I drove high end bmw's, a ferrari (older), hummers, etc and now I give 0 shits about what I drive as long as it gets me around.
But until then I will probably continue building BMWs, Benzes and Porsches online every few months :)
E.g. In Germany, dealerships have to provide 1 year of warranty for the car.
In some cases they also need to add 19% VAT (if it is a commercial re-sale?)