I am wrong! It's a beaver [0], for the beaver trade that built the port. Still, the Lenape word for "Queens" is "island of sea shells", and they're a huge part of New York food history [1]!

[0] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flags_of_New_York_City [1] http://www.nypl.org/blog/2011/06/01/history-half-shell-inter...