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I see it as a statement about Chang himself. As stated in another comment, Chang is both pretentious and not at the same time, and as paradoxical as his theory on flavor. This is reflected in his fashion, as well.

Wired has [gotten very much away from its roots](https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/wired-rashida04.j...). I believe they're pursuing a 'lifestyles' focus and it's really gone downhill.

I agree it's a little unusual, but I don't see how it detracts from the article in any way.

It absolutely doesn't detract from the article in any objective way. It's just a pet peeve and probably misplaced considering David Chang is also a TV celebrity in addition to a masterful Chef.

I believe my reaction went something like, "that's great. Who gives a shit?" but then I did get up on the wrong side of the bed today.