That is, it's assumed it does, but we just can't pin it down because of poorly done studies.
My guess is that that's true, but the other very real possibility is that our bodies are designed to process a very wide variety of foods in a very robust manner, such that as long as you're not eating something obviously poisonous, it doesn't matter as long as you're not depriving yourself of something important nutritionally (as in scurvy).
Similar arguments can me made with regard to weight and exercise, although there it seems like the effects are clearer in certain ways (e.g., I doubt anyone would argue that being in shape isn't better than being physically deconditioned).