What's the difference in how Safari handles this? I use Chrome, and it looks OK. But just loading the page on Safari slows everything else on my machine down.
If everything else on your machine is slowing down, then chances are good that Safari is hitting some bad case in the way it uses your GPU. CG::OGL may not be optimized well for this use case. (In general retrofitting CPU-based 2D graphics APIs to run on GPUs, as both Chrome and Safari attempt to do, is difficult.) Or the layerization heuristics may be going awry in Safari--unlike Chrome, which does things manually, Safari has a completely different implementation of layers that exports the layer structure of the page to the OS window server.