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Except I have Click to Flash installed in Safari, and it still insists on that full screen flash monstrosity.

ClickToFlash behaves as if Flash is installed and working, it just prevents it from being displayed.

In other words, you will always see that gray 'Flash' box with ClickToFlash instead of getting any no-flash fallback content that may be setup.

Unfortunately I don't think there is an easy way to temporarily and completely disable Flash in Safari for sans-Flash testing.

> Unfortunately I don't think there is an easy way to temporarily and completely disable Flash in Safari for sans-Flash testing

Prefs -> Security -> Uncheck "Enable Plugins", refresh.

Damn, it's right there isn't it? Thank you.