> The user should set their browser to a default that they like
If this was actually a decent part of a browser's configuration UI, it might have caught on (or... still might). Give people tools to manage this easily, and they may choose to do it - the 'reader mode' in some browsers shows some people want to get at content regardless of fonts, and giving them easier and more 'up-front' ways of managing this would bring the issue front and center.
Why did we end up with legislation about cookies? I think, in part, it's because it was essentially black magic for years, hidden in layers of nested "advanced" menus, instead of a button right in the damn menu bar saying "clear cookies".
"Why doesn't anyone use personal certificates?!" (I hear from tech colleagues now and then) - because the UI/management for it is horribly useless for 99% of people.
Same with this font stuff. Put "font choice" front and center, as part of browser setup - don't hide it behind layers of "accessibility" stuff. Give people some standard themes they can switch between easily - high contrast, B&W, etc - and have it be something that's a button press away (harder to do on mobile, I'd think).