Note that this is intended and desirable for any server with moderate to high loads. Plus, Nginx can reload its configuration gracefully without dropping connections.
With .htaccess files turned off (AllowOverride None), I got 282 requests per second. With .htacess files on (AllowOverride All) I got 286 requests per second (Yes, actually a few more hits per second with .htaccess turned on, but the results swing from test to test by a few percent anyway).