Chinese restaurants intended for Chinese people tend to specialize in a single style of dish: dumplings, hotpot, braised beef noodles, etc.
Two of the best restaurants I ate at were in Taiwan (Kaohsiung) and almost everything was delicious. The only challenging dish for a foreigner was chicken-feet (jijiao) and century eggs (pidan). But I was warned beforehand by the people who invited me and I tried them for the fun. But hey, it was pricy for the country (25€/person) so I think the problem lies in the lack of expensive Chinese restaurant in the West.
Edit: if you want to try a good Chinese restaurant and do not mind travelling a bit, this one was very good: http://www.dfy.com.tw/
That being said in general Chinese restaurants tend to be able to pull off a larger variety of items with a smaller kitchen.
Another thing about them, that stands in stark contrast to the examples in the article, is that their menus also tend to be far less "designed" and more utilitarian; they're often not much more than tables of items with names/descriptions and prices. Here's an (very badly translated, but you can see the format) example: http://jasonandcodi.com/images/20070119/bigchunk.jpg
I actually prefer that style more, even before I read the article, perhaps because I have a subconscious and instinctive aversion to menus "Playing With Your Mind" --- which a highly stylised, price-deemphasising, limited-choice design seems to imply.