Given the remarkably shady business practices of the entrenched players (past and present), I don't consider this relentless consolidation to be desirable. Additionally, in other markets where such consolidation has happened, it has historically not been beneficial for consumers (internet access, cell providers, etc).
I primarily interact with this market via the grocery store, not the bar tap, but I find this app [0] to be useful in that context. It makes it relatively painless to leverage my (minuscule) purchasing power to support small businesses, and reject these kinds of intentionally-obscured corporate maneuvers.