Good lord, the author is having way too much fun with this article.

>Smell them and weep

>herring-tasters of erring

>the Dutch were shocked when accusations surfaced in November that there was something rotten about the national herring test

>Mr Vollaard’s study has blown the lid off the sealed world of Dutch herring.

>Fishmongers [...] now say the test is rotten.

>The judge and Atlantic say they have been smeared, and that the statistical evidence is a red herring.

>But the charges [...] have left the test’s reputation for impartiality gutted.