You just described Kathmandu perfectly. Very few traffic lights were ever installed, they never really worked due to load shedding. Now with the load shedding in the city removed these lights only flash orange (sometimes).
Recently there has been a clampdown on people skipping queues, driving on the wrong side of the road (all positive efforts).
My two rules, same as where I learned to drive on a farm in Ireland; avoid hitting people, avoid hitting cows. Everything else will take care of themselves (cars, bikes, buses, trucks).