> This means using only organic grapes, picked by hand, and fermenting slowly with wild yeasts from the vineyard (most vintners use lab-grown yeasts, which Riffault says are engineered “like F1 cars, to speed through fermentation”).
This sounds kind of wrong, almost every single plant we are eating has been optimized for our needs over the past ~200 years (citation needed). Cucumber, tomato, strawberry, zucchini, eggplant, avocado, watermelon, carrot and corn, just to name a few, have been engineered "like F1 cars" for each specific demand. So why should it be an issue to use optimized yeasts for wine too?
PS: Probably unambiguous, but I was instantly scared this article is going to be about Wine Is Not an Emulator.