This great visualization[1] showed up on my feed yesterday, you can see that most of the BTC transactions' fees are being measured in single-digit USD cents again. It compares BTC to BCH, and you have to wait a while to see what's happening, but I think it's a fairly unbiased and basically informative view of how the two on-chain transaction scaling strategies actually work.
(Spoiler: the number of BTC transactions is still massively outpacing the number of BCH transactions, in case you didn't guess that.)
[1]: https://bitcoinsubway.cash/
[edit: http_s_]
https://bitinfocharts.com/comparison/bitcoin-transactionfees...
At the present time, a transaction can be reasonably assured to be mined in the next 1-6 blocks by adding a fee of $0.20 for next block (or down to $0.10 for within ~6 blocks.)
This is not the only fee you pay when buying and selling, but it can be... exchanges like GDAX permit you to pay a fee to place a market order (buy/sell from the current limit ceiling or floor), or pay no fee to place a limit order (wait for the market price to cross your own preferred price), and those different kinds of exchanges will all have different fee structures, but most markets supporting limit orders I think should not charge fees. This kind of buy/sell fee is basically always a percent, maybe with a flat fee floor (eg. $1 min fee.)
The market order fee is really probably pretty insignificant unless you're actively trading all the time, in which case you'll definitely want to avoid paying them. On Coinbase, for example, you only buy and sell at the market price with a roughly percent-based fee structure, and the fees are low.
Ostensibly you can understand what's changed to be that, now that there are no-fee options available for high-volume traders, all of the high-volume traders are using those options so there is more room on the chain for small-time simple consumers to pay a low fee and keep things simple, doing their transaction in the traditional way. I don't want to run a Lightning node, but I can still benefit from the existence of that protocol through lower fees, because it means there's simply a lot less traffic on the chain.
I don't have numbers to back any of these assertions up about how it happened, other than the actual links I provided regarding the average fee value paid... but all of this reasoning about 'how' is hypothetical and I'm probably wrong about something.