Sticky header/footer, cookie consent covering the menu, not a single line of the content visible. You consider this design good?
I might be wrong with this specific site on the JS - it only loaded 121KB Javascript. The actual HTML of the entry is 30.
WordPress nowadays upgrades itself to minor version - security patches - without touching it, and they release security patches for ancient versions as well. I'm aware there are unpatched sites out there, but they are either ancient - 5+ years - and untouched since, or deliberately crippled.
Average static blog has a very decent default theme.
But hey, different people, different opinions.