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I don't go to BM, but my teenage son does (with his mother).

His mother and her BM crew make some of the big art you see pictures of every year.

They think it's still great.

I never been to either, but the burners in my area also go to firefly. There also are a variety of burning man associated events at other times.

https://www.fireflyartscollective.org

I'm not a burner, but I've worked with several. There seems to be local community burner gatherings that are less well known unless you are part of the community and probably have the vibe are you seeking.

type "[your state] burn" into your favorite search engine, you'll find smaller events with a decent chunk of crossover with the people who are serious about Black Rock City.