Mystery meat navigation is probably the worst paradigm in all of us. Even icons with stupid, but distinguishable icons is better.
But if you:
1) go to shitty-fullscreen
2) hit picture-in-picture
3) go back to fullscreen
4) close fullscreen back to normal view
5) pinch-outward to zoom
Dear Googlers reading this: you may be tempted to go out of your way to fuck it up further and remove this workaround. Pretty please don't? Thanks.
Although the mobile version is unconscionably awful, I almost always have to guess at what the controls do and avoid opening the app.