As much as I like the article, the title is flat-out incorrect. The most difficult bouldering problems aren't found inside a gym, they are out in nature. World Cup problems average V10ish, whereas the top climbers project V16 outside.
Sure they aren't Silence, but most common folk would probably conflate 'problems for the world championship' with 'hardest' and to communicate to that audience the artistic license seems to me to have merit.
Both grades I don't even aspire to!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering)#Comparisons...
I've climbed most of my life...
I boulder three times a week and run 30 miles worth of trails a week . I can do pullups from my finger tips on a 'hangboard' (it's a training tool).
I climbed a V5 last week and was so happy I nearly cried.
These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine.
Climbing competitions are worth watching just for the sheer amazement at what the human body can be trained to do. I use them at the beginning of classes because students usually just stop talking and watch in stunned silence.
I went to youtube to find out what you mean. Didn't need to search for long. Here's one example. I don't know what grade this is but the climb is definitely freaky.
And in top competition bouldering the problems aren't just physically hard, they are also fiendishly difficult puzzles to solve.
That was disheartening.
It's really apparent with someone like Adam Ondra, who has been climbing hard for 20 years. He'll get spit off of a problem a half dozen times and then suck up these elemental forces of nature and crank through it. I mean, he's a genetic freak amongst the upper eschelons of strong, he's more flexible than any top climber today, his ability to climb swiftly with technical precision is the best I've ever seen, but the real X factor that puts him head and shoulders above the rest might just be that he tries harder than anyone else.
Simply knowing that I "can" do thing that I did not think I could do has opened up a variety of possibilities.
I dunno if it is any help, but I find that pre-visualization immediately before starting helps immensely.
The weird revelation for me was that getting that old strength back is a matter of remembering it, it's memory work. There was this boulder problem I was working on, and I couldn't even stick to the holds, so I used some jugs to ease myself into position, and for the first couple seconds I could barely hang on, but then suddenly it got easier, and it was my muscles remembering how to fire the way they needed to hold on. It's akin maybe to a guitar player who hasn't strummed in a while remembering how to strike a particular chord, it's a little bit of struggle but then it all comes flooding back.
On my first day back I was having a hard time with 5.8, and wondering to myself "Am I a beginner climber again? Do I need to build everything up again from scratch?", but after only 6 weeks I'm pulling 5.12a moves again here and there. I'm pretty impressed with myself, though I'm still a long way from my previous high water mark.
I think you're right that it's largely mental, though working carefully on my footwork and other technique has helped with some easy gains. Simply getting that idea about how it works helps-- in my day tpo day life, I generally haven't needed to move like I do when climbing.
Even when I was 20 I couldn't pull 5.12. However, I've been able to successfully do harder "5.11" at my gym. I don't think that will translate to rocks... I could be way, way off base, but the 5.10s in my gym feel a lot like I remember the 5.8s I used to climb back in the day.
So I am super curious how this gym work will convert to climbing in the larger world. Ultimately my goal is to be able to do things like the casual route on the diamond, so I am not aiming to do super hard routes, just committed stuff that takes a lot of skills. I just got a rope and some draws, though, so I'll be seeing how the gym translates to actual rock over the next couple of weeks.
[0]: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Climbing-Training-Performance...