I decided to start again from scratch. I discovered a handy little utility called pghero and set up it's internal monitoring:
https://github.com/ankane/pghero
I backed up my old .conf replaced it with a default and blew away all my old indices, and fired up the database. Of course, nothing worked well. But step by step, working with postgres' internal tools and pghero, I took a brand new look at every previous assumption and was much more strategic about where and when I created an index and which tuning parameter I tweaked.
Long story short, I was able to knock 30 GB off of the install disk size (based, in large part, on unnecessary duplicate indices), accelerate the most common queries, and everything worked a lot smoother. Plus my postgres installation was no longer fighting old postgres .conf tuning tweaks which were designed for much older versions of postgres.
Just adding my vote for revising your old tuning parameters after your database (and your programmer/administrator) has matured a bit.