Yet the author feels no need to not condone the rest of Edsel's bad behavior. It's not OK to fondle you but fine to spill soup on your lap? To me it's all disgusting. I'd likely clear out permanently before my butt hit a chair. It's a little gross that the article treats him as a folk hero.
Not that I have a problem with people who tolerated or even liked it. Some people like being abused and God bless them. If they came back after the first time it's no longer really abuse because they expected it and had choices. Same if they knew what to expect by reputation.
But was it a popular place despite his antics or because of them? Maybe for the same reason that people liked being insulted by Don Rickles, which I can't fathom either.