It's clear to me that this is a shit sandwich, and what we should really do is start replacing HTML/CSS/JS with a new app development mechanism that embraces the significantly refined requirements we have now over our 1990s predecessors.
Ideally the end result is as easy to build and take apart as the old web used to be.
I definitely use view source when debugging my own code or testing layout changes I am playing with since it is easy to still adjust the css and view the changes etc. The javascript console is valuable too.
I guess for me it is usually less about finding out how things work now so much as debugging an issue or finding a vulnerability. I have found a number of vulnerabilities using view source on products out of China that have built in web servers, like ip cams and the such.
*edit -- When I think of view source I think of the complete dev tools, not just the single "view source" tab.