Why the Amazon Basics Keyboard Is My Favorite Keyboard
nickjanetakis.com
nickjanetakis.com
I don't like it when people equate mechanical keyboards to loudness. They don't have to be loud! My keyboard has MX Clear switches which are not loud in the slightest, and I personally think they feel miles better than any non-mechanical keyboard I've used.
I usually find that people who disparage mechanical keyboards do not actually know a lot about mechanical keyboards...
I'd buy a $15 keyboard in a heartbeat if it wouldn't hurt my wrists. But for me, the Leopold is a medical device. I would have paid twice as much for it, which has nothing to do with the key switches at all.
In fact, I did pay 2x for it because I bought one for my home system as well.
For anyone else looking to reduce the distance between mousepad and keyboard, this size is usually called 84-key, 75%, or 80%. They have all of the keys that a tenkeyless has but laid out in such a way that the keyboard is significantly less wide.
this one is relatively cheap (they used to sell an even cheaper one that I currently own, which has off brand switched instead of cherry mx)
https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-Excalibur-Mechanical-Keyboard-S...
Nomenclature was the big hurdle I had to clear when searching for a keyboard. I didn't know what these boards were called until a fellow engineer introduced me.
I'm sure "84-key" will be a helpful keyword to someone else reading this thread.
This site [1] has a quick gallery, and this[2] Github page a lot more (including many niche or kit ones). The Kinesis Freestyle <whatever> looked like a good option, but I decided to try one of the nerdy ones, so I've ordered a VE.A clone from AliExpress.
I found both of these pages through the /r/MechanicalKeyboards wiki [3]. That community has a lot of posts and comments of people showing off gamer/geek/nerd stuff, but also seems to give reasonable advice to "normal" people wanting advice.
[1] http://xahlee.info/kbd/ergonomic_keyboards_index.html
[2] https://github.com/diimdeep/awesome-split-keyboards/blob/mas...
[3] https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_gui...
- No caps lock indicator - Fn keys are a bit small, and I prefer a Fn button as opposed to a switch - Uses a proprietary dongle instead of Bluetooth
Maybe one day I'll get an ErgoDox, but I need to figure out what switches I like first...
Perhaps you could use a tiny widget that shows the caps lock status next to the clock?
I ordered Cherry MX Browns, which seemed like a fairly standard choice — red for gamers, brown for typists. I just hope they're not too loud.
[1] http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/8/d/logitech-cor...
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-k...
Red switches are quiet.
You'll also need to map your escape key to Caps Lock. You can use AutoHotkey for this with this script:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c6t9sj3fygtre6h/AutoHotKey.ahk
Vim basically allows you to trade mental effort for hand movement. Over time, the mental effort goes away, but the saved movement lasts forever.
But VS has so many shortcut "chords" that depend on HJKL that I can't juggle both paradigms at once. When my brain is in "vim-mode", I'm constant hitting ESC -> ':' to trigger commands.
I had the same issue with Atom, Sublime, and VSCode extensions that mimic vim too.
http://ergo.human.cornell.edu/ergoguide.html
http://ergo.human.cornell.edu/AHTutorials/typingposture.html
In my opionion, it's worth a good read-through. I also switched to an Evoluent vertical mouse and a Goldtouch split/angled keyboard w/o the numeric pad to minimize back-and-forth. Now I use lapdesk+apple magic keyboard+Evoluent vertical mouse, and don't really have any problems.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_lis...
I've never seen a mechanical keyboard that wasn't loud; let alone silent. (The thread topic is noise, not comfort or usability.)
That doesn't mean they don't exist. Maybe if I rubbed shoulders more with the high society, I might get access to some invitation-only showroom for exotic keyboards where $14K will get you a whisper-silent unit.
I do have one almost absolutely silent keyboard. It's quite awful to type on. Basically it's one of those flexible rubber keyboards for industrial environments, where there are spill and dust hazards. I use it at night, not to disturb anyone. I optimized for sound at the cost of comfort.
That's a complete non-starter. I'm not making a custom board for anything not related to guitar. :)
The general market of computer keyboard users is not going to build their own hardware for hundreds of dollars in parts if they just want a silent keyboard; that's practically the same as admitting these things are not available.
I use the MacBook built in speaker (not a detached microphone like he does in the video). My keyboard is on a wooden desk directly in front of the the laptop (with an open screen for even worse acoustics). Maybe I'd have better luck with a raised microphone like in the video in the article, but I would not say this is a particularly quiet keyboard.
So in your case, it's not because the keyboard is loud. It's because you have huge rumble vibrations getting through to your mic, and this is masked with your laptop's keyboard since it's absorbing some of that.
If you look at the link in the post it has a sample of what the keyboard sounds in a typical screencast scenario when you have a proper microphone stand.
No standalone keyboard is going to prevent rumbles if you have it sitting on the same surface as your mic. Especially if your desk or microphone stand is wobbly (but it would still happen on a heavy stable desk too).
There are particular mentoring objectives that you can hit with it, and there is value in bouncing ideas off another person, but I don't need to sit in front of a computer screen for the latter.
I often go on remote calls with people and our task is to implement something while also training the person or giving tips on how to do it in the future while answering any questions they have in real time (related or not).
So it's more of a 1 on 1 teaching gig for an hour or 2. Not 8 hours of pair programming every day full time.
Like to this day, I have never seen any reproducible strong evidence provided that pair programming is beneficial. And I don't know if I would call the occasional ad-hoc (unstructured) "pairing" anything other than what a normal person would call it: "two people collaborating like normal fucking human beings."
But if there is evidence that 2 is better than 1, why is 3 or 4 not even better?
Do you have a high end recording set up? A good mic, boom stand, etc.? It would be curious to hear your set up on how it comes off on video when typing at your max WPM.
But I definitely never heard of having to lube your keyboard before using it. I'll look into that just to see what it sounds like. Hopefully someone with high end recording gear has done real world tests.
There are a lot of variables when it comes to lubed switches, with the type and amount of lube used having an effect on the overall feel and sound. This is an interesting guide and rather long discussion about methods of lubing Cherry MX switches, for example.[0]
You'll find a lot of videos some decent decent recording tests[1] of switches in general out there, but not a ton that are exhaustive comparisons of different switches and modifications. This video,[2] for example, compares decibel readings from Cherry MX Red, Blue, the Topre 45g, and Cherry MX Silent Black and Reds.[0] Comparing across different tests has obvious problems, and since you're looking for a sort of goldilocks sound level for a specific use case (not inaudible, not too loud, just right for recording), you might wind up wanting to experiment a bit with a switch tester. Other factors like the keyboard case construction and the keycaps you're using are going to have an effect as well; a mat underneath the keyboard will have a noticeable effect for many keyboards, for example. Not to mention how you type and whether you're bottoming out. Personally, I find that kind of experimentation fun but not everyone will agree.
Because you're recording, it might be easier to look at testing different microphone positions and experimenting with positioning a few layers of foam between your keyboard and microphone to absorb some of the higher frequencies. You won't be able to make it entirely silent, which isn't the goal, but you might be able to get it to a level that sounds pleasant in your recordings.
0. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0
But, I switched to a noise reduction headset and my screen sharing partners say my keyboard noise is now equivalent to people with rubber dome keyboards (you can barely hear it).
I have a keyboard on order with "silent red" mechanical switches. From what I understand, they're similar to rubber dome keyboards in noise level and if that's true then I won't have to use the headset all the time.
I use a Logitech G Pro keyboard, which sounds (to my ears) roughly the same as MX Browns, but I use a supercardioid dynamic microphone (the sE L7, which for my money is the best dynamic microphone you can buy until you get up into the ElectroVoice RE320 territory) on an arm. It's got a tight enough polar pattern that I don't even need headphones because my desk speakers don't feed back, let alone the keyboard that's at a 90 degree angle from the business end of the mic.
I have a bunch of studio mics, too, but I've found that teleconference is easier with a cheap but tight-pattern dynamic. Check out the sE V7. It's tremendous for exactly that.
1. https://zealpc.net/products/zilents
2. https://kbdfans.com/products/pre-orderaliaz-silent-switch-ta...
(unaffiliated with either of these stores)
If you want to spend some time deciding, we should go over what kind of keyswitch and what kind of layout you want. This [1] is a pretty good overview of the different kinds of layouts (60%, tenkeyless, fullsize) and linear vs tactile switches. You can listen to sound tests for any switch on youtube to get a better idea for how quiet it'll be. I personally use a Poker 2 with brown switches for 90% programming/10% CS:GO, and I love it.
[1] https://kotaku.com/how-to-pick-the-right-mechanical-keyboard...
Size aside do the tenkeyless have any other advantage?
If you want to cheaply try out mechanical keyboarding, I'd recommend the brand Redragon on Amazon. They've got a few options and they're in the $25-$50 range. I've had my K552 for almost two years now and I don't have any complaints. I program and game on it daily.
And now 6+ hours and hundreds of comments later I went through the comments and I still haven't seen anyone post a single mechanical keyboard that matches my requirements at any price point. It's just dozens of posts about needing to be a keyboard surgeon and assembling a selection of carefully picked pieces without any end to end guides.
For the most part I just want to plug it in, have it feel good and write code.
Your $150 recommendation from below almost fits the bill but it looks like a super condensed keyboard with a non-standard layout that's missing a bunch of extra keys, and I can't find any concrete proof of what it sounds like on video. It also has a lower average star review than the Amazon Basics keyboard (but I wouldn't put much weight into that).
http://www.realforce.co.jp/en/products/R2SA-US4-IV/index.htm...
But ignoring price, what improvements will I see vs my existing keyboard? At a non-competitive level, the human level is likely dictating how many WPM I can type. At 80 WPM, upgrading to this keyboard won't turn me into a 120 WPM typist. Maybe I'll gain a few WPM but that's not the bottleneck for delivering code on time.
Also how is your recommended keyboard different than a run of a mill $50 mechanical keyboard that I've tried in the past?
You said:
> 6+ hours and hundreds of comments later I went through the comments and I still haven't seen anyone post a single mechanical keyboard that matches my requirements at any price point.
I was just offering one keyboard which does as far as I can tell satisfy all of your requirements. (The previous $250 version of this keyboard is about the same as this $350 one; the differences aren’t IMO worth the difference in price. You could probably find a used one for $150, if not less.)
Here are some of the features that make the Topre board nicer than your Amazon board:
- The actuation point is about halfway through the stroke instead of at the very bottom, meaning you don’t need to mash the key all the way down to get it to reliably actuate. Once you get used to this you can type with much lighter and springier finger movements, and (a) dramatically reduce the amount of shock on your finger joints, reducing both fatigue and long-term damage, while (b) improving your typing speed.
- Having taller keycaps on the further-away rows of keys compared to the home row makes them easier to reach by extending the distal joints of the fingers instead of moving the hand. It is in my opinion inexcusable for keyboards not intended for laptops to be flat across the top. Additionally, the keycaps have a curved top shape which helps the fingers find them.
- The switches have what many people find to be a more pleasant tactile response (this is subjective, and I prefer other keyboards, but those do not satisfy your other criteria). I would expect the 45g Topre keys to need less force than the Amazon board, but I haven’t ever seen measurements of that one. (Some people prefer heavier switches; Topre also makes a 55g version. Some people prefer very light switches; Topre also makes a 30g version.)
- In particular they have a nice bit of bounce on the upstroke which will help your finger to release the key just by relaxing the flexors instead of needing to fire your finger extensors. This will (a) reduce fatigue, and (b) improve speed and accuracy.
- The Topre keyboard is likely more uniform from key to key. Most <$20 rubber dome boards have poor quality control. (I have not tried the Amazon one.) It should also retain its key feel better over time.
- I would expect the Topre “silent” board to be quieter than the Amazon board, but I haven’t spent much time with either one, so you’d have to test that yourself. Personally I like much louder keyboards.
- The Topre keyboard is much more robust; the switches use capacitive sensing to tell when the spring has been depressed, instead of relying on an electrical contact, so they should not wear out even after tens of millions of keypresses.
- The Topre keyboard has larger rubber pads on the bottom, probably made from a nicer material. It should slip less than the Amazon board (being heavier also helps with this). It also has nice sturdy feet if you want to adjust the tilt.
- The switches are very stable and smooth, with tighter tolerances. The keyboard is much more rigid and solid feeling. Overall it feels like a well engineered product instead of a flimsy toy. Many people find joy in using well made long lasting tools, but YMMV.
- The keycaps are made of a sturdier type of plastic, and use dye sublimation printing. The letters will never wear off, and even the surface texture should remain through decades of serious typing.
- The electrical components inside the keyboard are more expensive and less likely to fail. You’d have to test latency, etc. for yourself, I haven’t extensively evaluated either of these keyboards.
- The keyboard supports full n-key rollover (this is unlikely to matter for routine typing).
> how is your recommended keyboard different than a run of a mill $50 mechanical keyboard
The switches feel substantially different. The keycaps are made from a different type of plastic. The case is sturdier. The switching mechanism is more reliable.
But keyboard preferences are subjective. Personally I like many $50 keyboards better than this $350 one. I was just looking to satisfy your criteria.
When it comes to the life span of the keyboard, how easy are they to clean?
With this Amazon one, I seriously spend about 30 seconds every 2 weeks wiping it down with a small towel and it's as good as new in terms of cleanliness.
I'm not a neat freak but I do know that build up of whatever can definitely play a role in how the keyboard feels over time and full size keys tend to collect a lot more debris over time.
Also if you don't mind, what would be 2-3 recommendations in the $50 range where quietness and overall "this feels great to type on" are the biggest goals?
If a keyboard sits on a very dusty garage shelf for 20 years with no cover, sometimes dust works its way inside the switches; cleaning that out is a lot more complicated, requiring desoldering and disassembling all of the switches. Don’t do this to your keyboard, and watch out for the condition of decades-old used keyboards.
* * *
Personally I like very loud clicky keyboards, like the IBM model F or anything with clicky Alps SKCM or SKCP switches (from the 1980s–early 90s).
If you can find one in good condition and don’t mind an adapter, I quite like the Apple Extended Keyboard II from ~1990 which is reasonably quiet (likely louder than the Amazon board; if you want to further reduce the sound you could open up the case and fill the empty spaces inside with some kind of padding – I know people who have successfully damped sound with sheets of drawer liner or felt).
Tactile Cherry MX switches (or any of the many MX clones) with added o-rings or other padding are reasonably quiet. I’m not really the person to ask though. Again, filling empty spaces inside the case can do a lot to damp the sound.
I'm not going to mechanical keyboard conferences, lubing my key switches and I had no idea what a sound dampening o-ring was until I read the parent comment.
I haven't gotten super into keyboards because I haven't been negatively effected enough for me to go down that rabbit hole of finding something top tier that covers everything I want to do in a better way with 0 compromises. For example, typing into a terminal with 50ms of input delay is a horrendous experience so that lead me down a path of researching, finding and writing about monitors and terminals with extremely low latency which I think is safe to say is enthusiast level.
The same goes for audio equipment. I have a 3,000+ post comparing a few headphones, going as far as analyzing frequency ranges to help find the most neutral headphones so I can hear back my voice accurately while recording courses.
And for mice, back in the day when I played games more seriously I would put custom teflon pads on the bottom of the mouse to make it glide more smoothly and consistently.
But with keyboards. I am satisfied with a fairly low noise, tactile feeling keyboard that doesn't skip or double press keys so I can chug along at ~80 WPM as a non-home row typist. I'm sure there's better, but the pain just isn't there to go deeper down the hole.
I'm not even getting into mechanical/non-mechanical, ergonomic (in all the flavors) and typical staggered layout. That little keytravel leads to either 1) over-bottoming out, which over time is bad for your joints or 2) tons of missed keypresses.
Also even better than those o-rings (which reduce keytravel) there are switches with built in dampeners in the sliders (one expensive example https://zealpc.net/products/zilents but really https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0490/7329/products/Zilent_... you can see the little sliver of white at the top and bottom of the slider thats a little 'rubber' bumper that dampens the bottom-out and snap back ('top-out') sound.)
I didn't really fall down the hole until about 10 years into my career when I had my first brush with RSI, but that landed me into a Kinesis Advantage which took awhile to get up to speed on, but now I don't see myself going back for longer sessions.
And have seen it in a lot of fields and I've actually been culpable of it:
* competitive sailing: I've done quite a bit of dinghy sailing and regattas in my youth (Optimist, Laser, 420), I was always a bit frustrated because as I was not very good, I never had the best boat allocated. But in truth, as long as your dinghy is somewhat water tight and your set of sails are not blowing-up when a strong wind occurs, you are set, at least for a regional and even national level (one of my trainers actually won a national championship on a garbage dinghy that was laying around abandon in a parking lot).
* music (guitar): I've spent countless hours on forums arguing about guitars, amps, effect pedals and things like that. Today I own a Fender Telecaster (Made in Japan, not a US one), a Les Paul Classic, two tubes amps (one I've built, the other I've repaired). All that is far in excess of my actual skills. And I've seen far worst than me, I've literally guitarists barely able to play (like not being able to play 4 cords in rhythm) with 5000$ guitars and 3000$ amps.
* photography, I've seen people with 5000/6000$ (and more) worth of hardware (like Canon 7D or 5D + 2.8 80-200 IS USM + a few other lenses) not being able to frame correctly a picture. And personally, I'm far from good but I do own a second hand 5D (mark I) and a 17-40 L, and the best set of picture I've ever taken was with an old analog AE-1 with a 1.8 50mm lens that cost me 80 bucks during concert.
* mechanical keyboard: I do own a few mechanical keyboards despite the fact I'm barely able to type without looking at my keys (and I've tried to learn several times to type correctly without success using klavaro), and having a very slow word per minutes. I spend more time reading and thinking than typing so in the end, it doesn't matter that much.
Clearly, I'm not the worst at it, but I'm definitely culpable. That being said, having a nice and expensive rig do provide for more pleasure in a lot of cases (ex: between a 150$ and 1500$ you do feel a difference, the touch is not the same, the wood vibration are not same, etc), and it's completely OK to allow yourself these small pleasures.
However, acknowledging these small pleasures as such is important, a cheap guitar is fine, a cheap camera is fine, a cheap keyboard is fine, etc, no need to be pedantic about it. In the end, it rarely matters that much.
PS: cheap mechanical keyboards are actually kind of horrible, I've a 30/40$ one with MX browns copies, the thing is really annoying with key presses resulting in two or three letters being typed, shift+char not always working properly or sometimes a key press resulting in nothing.
2) the mechanical keyboards is only one item, a gaming rig or a good laptop could cost you 1 or 2 thousands dollars if not more. It's just that mechanical keyboards is where I see far more behavior in the line "these plebs who don't know better". And in term of relative cost, first time I heard 150$ for a keyboard, I was a bit puzzled, in my mind, a keyboard cost between 5 and 15$, so at least 10 times less.
Since then there has been a relentless 30+ year focus on cost cutting, and the elaborate engineering and expensive production that went into 1970s keyboards is no longer economically viable.
> see far more behavior in the line "these plebs who don't know better".
Personally I find that typing on a nice keyboard (which might be something picked up for $15 on ebay) makes a significant difference in typing speed, accuracy, and comfort.
Everyone I have ever met who was excited about keyboards (from casual users of split ergonomic keyboards or old keyboards salvaged from their own obsolete 80s computers up through hard-core DIYers with dozens of hand-soldered prototypes and hard-core collectors with hundreds of keyboards filling up their houses) was enthusiastic and friendly, excited to share their ideas and experiences.
People who spend their whole career typing and don’t know that they could find a better experience are missing out, and might enjoy trying some alternatives.
YMMV.
It also hurts their fingers. My brother loved his mechanical keyboard (Cherry MX blue). Very loud (he bottomed out), very satisfying, but he had to quit because his fingers hurt.
How well isolated the keyboard is from the table can also make a big difference so it can be worth to put a piece of folded microfiber cloth or something underneath it.
[1]: GMK QMX Clip sound test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UroBHvL5LZ8
A lot of people commented here saying it's questionable not to mention I happened to use an affiliate link.
I want to thank those people for bringing that up. My intent wasn't to deceive anyone and I hope my HN comment history (98% of what I post here are comments on other people's stuff) separate me from yet another affiliate blog spammer.
I just pushed an update to my site that now includes a little snippet of text at the top of every post that has 1 or more affiliate links.
If anyone is curious about the numbers. I have 243 public posts about a whole bunch of developer focused topics at the time of writing this comment and 15 of those posts had affiliate links, and of those 15 posts most of them are 2,000 to 5,000 word articles evaluating and talking about a product or service I really enjoy using and have used successfully for months or years before even writing about it.
It goes into the details.
The TL;DR is no it's not worthwhile if you're factoring in time spent vs money earned.
I put close to 5 years and 5,000 hours of my time into creating my site and supporting anyone who asks questions for free with zero expectations. I currently make about $50-75 a month from all affiliate links combined.
But to be fair only 5% of the pages on my site have affiliate links because my site isn't about affiliate sales. It just so happens as a developer I sometimes find useful products and write about them. 95% of the posts are about some programming / developer topic.
I actually used the link. I got a KVM today with a Scroll Lock hot key and, after 4 years, I'm just now realizing my basic Dell keyboard doesn't have that key :/ It came with a remote, but the place I want to keep it puts the IR receiver out of site. I'm currently using my old (Windows Vista era) Dell keyboard, but it's clanky AF. The Amazon Basics keyboard looks pretty close to what I'm used to.
>This comes down to poor UI design or bad tech choices. You want related things to be together. If I have caps lock on by accident, I want to be able to look at the caps lock key and see the light. I don’t want to have to look on the other side of the keyboard.
Completely disagree. I want to have all the status information in one easy and non-obstructed place. On my keyboard, when I have my hands on the home row, Cap Lock is obstructed by my pinky. Also, Cap lock is much further down from the top of the keyboard making the eye distance travel more to check it.
I'm happy the writer has found a keyboard that works for them. Although I think that they'd be able to get a better typing experience by building a custom keyboard, it would cost easily $300+ and take a lot of time/research/etc.
Even though keyboards is one of my biggest hobbies, I still have a lot of respect for OEM keyboards that maintain a good typing feel at a relatively low cost.
I especially like the Apple Magic Keyboard, although many of my mechanical keyboard-using friends may not agree with me.
Anyone interested in typing, I strongly encourage to check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards on reddit.
You can customise anything!
- Switch feel/tactility/sound
- Case material, colour, size
- Keycaps, feel, sound, look, legends
- Custom software, macro keys
- Talk to friendly people who love keyboards
I think the OP's article is quite a good rundown on basic usability features that are perplexingly missing on many keyboards. The Realforce ticks the boxes - except for extra media keys, which YMMV on. I also appreciate the ability to swap the CTRL and CAPS LOCK key on the keyboard by flipping a dip switch, which allows my preferred layout (it even includes the extra replacement caps lock key, and it actually has an LED under where the old CTRL is, so you keep your caps indicator).
I have maybe a 2014 version of the Apple keyboard (wired/numpad) at the office and I love using it. I can work long hours, not feel fatigue, it's never failed, etc etc.
I also use a Logitech K840 at home: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k840-mechanical-corde...
And it suits me just fine. Also a pleasure to work on. Though I'm not a switch purist, either. And I'm a sucker for the aluminum... (mainly because I'm likely to drop something on it, or drop the keyboard itself at some point) it's solid for a decent price. I think I even waited to get it on sale.
OTOH a mechanical keyboard is much more comfortable than rubber domes for many people. And they can last almost indefinitely, even if a switch breaks, you can fix it in a couple minutes if you have a soldering iron. If you spill coffee on it, you can clean it with isopropyl alcohol and most of the time that will fix any issues.
My mobo still has a PS/2 port, but I bought an adapter for USB when that time comes. Other than needing a really deep cleaning (something I really need to do) - it works flawlessly.
And it doesn't have any of the "Windows Key" junk that happened in the 90s to distract from my *nix aesthetic. Only downside is that it is beige, while the rest of my system is black.
When/if it ever breaks - I have another one waiting in the wings, plus a Unicomp USB classic also available (I've been thinking about swapping it out to keep the aesthetic - and replacing the 'doze keys on it with Tux keycap covers or something like that).
Somewhere, in my junk stash, I also have an old SGI keyboard that I need to look into making an adapter or something for...
Now, the main reason I've not just bought one good keyboard and continued is honestly because the custom mechanical keyboard community is so nice. People design their own keyboard cases, caps, parts and there's so many ways of putting your dream keyboard together.
I've been typing on some <15 logitech keyboard at work for like 5 years.
I like it in the it does the job sense & I can leave it on my desk if away for a month or three without worrying about someone damaging or stealing it.
I don't need to worry about someone stealing my current keyboard though, it weighs over 6kg!
Price wasn't really a factor in my decision to use this keyboard. I mean it's nice and all that it was $14, but I wouldn't think twice about spending more if a better solution existed.
As mentioned in the article I did spend a lot of time looking for alternatives.
The guy just likes this cheap keyboard. I use those aluminum Mac keyboards for most of the same reasons: I like (somewhat) low key travel, they’re cheap and easy to find, and last reasonably well.
Edit: Actually it looks like the $50 keyboard I’m talking about got replaced by the “Magic” keyboard that’s considerably more expensive. Too bad.
I only said that because it was something I did almost 20 years ago with the Logitech Wingman mouse when it was officially labeled as no longer being produced.
It's not that normal keyboards are bad, but it's a bit like going from cheap generic shoes to custom-tailored ones. I don't type much faster or accurately on it, but it feels much better, every single day.
There is no significant contortion needed to operate a standard keyboard. Sadly, the standard keyboard does encourage a regrettable bending of the wrist, but I have found it straightforward to learn not to yield to that encouragement. (Boards such as the Amazon Basics or Apple's keyboards in which the top of every key cap is flat rather than cylindrical help because cylindricality encourages the typist to line the finger up with the axis of the cylinder.)
I have learned to pay attention to the bend of my wrists (the bend in the vertical plane, that is). Once that became a habit, it has taken very little of my mental bandwidth to periodically bring my attention back to my wrists. I do lots of typing and have not had any RSI since about 2004 despite my having a chronic health problem that causes chronic inflammation, which in turn makes me more susceptible to RSI and despite my using membrane keyboards for the last 10 years or so. Specifically, I used 3 of the relatively expensive and fragile Logitech K750 (not recommended unless you are rich), then one cheap K120 (not recommended), then 3 Amazon Basics (recommended).
The Amazon Basics is $13 incl shipping ($10 each if you buy ten) whereas the cheapest configuration (no tilt kit, no wing rests) of your board is $270. Advocates of mechanical keyboards will reply that the mechanical switches will last about 10 times longer than the membrane switches of the Amazon Basics, which I do not dispute, but if you keep your keyboard that long, you've got to clean it very well every year or 2 to keep the population of germs to reasonable levels. My personal experience with mechanical keyboards is that I never find the time to do the thorough cleaning maybe because of a nagging feeling in the back of my mind that even a thorough cleaning won't reduce the germ levels to anything nearly as low as the levels of a new keyboard.
And by the time the mechanical board is 10 times older than the age at which the keys of a membrane board start to become mushy, you've probably had to do 1 or 2 repairs of electrical problems on the mechanical board. Case in point: for a few (not more than 4) years in the 1990s I used a Kinesis Advantage, which consists of about 10 PC boards internally. When one of these 10 boards failed somehow (rendering the board useless) the manufacturer told me it could be replaced by them for 50 bucks, back when a new board cost about 270. (I decided not to pay that because I had learned by then that I didn't like typing on that design of keyboard.)
In summary, being able to afford to replace my keyboard every year or 2 saves me from tedious cleaning an repairing tasks, which I find worth the cost of my having slightly less attention to give to the cognitive content of whatever programming task or writing task I am engaged in when I am typing because I reserve a very small fraction of my attention to how bent my wrists are.
Actually, the case for cheap keyboard is even strong than that. Here goes.
When a typist switches from a standard keyboard to an ergonomic keyboard, the sheer unfamiliarity of the new keyboard basically forces the typists to pay much closer attention to the physical act of typing than he needed to pay while using the familiar keyboard. I believe it is this increase in paying of attention that is the cause of most of the reports of ameliorations of RSI after switching to an ergo keyboard, and that if the RSI sufferer had been familiar with an ergo board, then switching to a standard board would produce ameliorations at roughly the same rate and to the same degree!
In particular, regardless of what kind of keyboard we are using, we should pay enough attention to the physical act of typing to ensure than (1) our wrists are in roughly neutral position, (2) at the moment the tip of our finger hits a key cap during a keystroke, the tip is moving faster than it would have been able to move if the tip were resting on the key cap at the start of the keystroke (3) at the moment of contact, the finger tip is moving roughly in the same direction that the key will travel.
I am told that the reason (2) is important / desirable is that the human brain is better at striking accurately than it is at pushing accurately. I am also told that there is something about the "backswing", that is, the moving of the finger tip away from its target in preparation for a movement towards the target, that improves accuracy and consequently reduces the strains that lead to RSI.
If they made a cheap keyboard that did not encourage the typist to bend his wrists and was otherwise as good as the Amazon Basics, I would switch to it. But no matter what board I use, to avoid RSI I have learned I needed to pay slight attention to ensure (2) and (3) above. Given that, it is very little additional trouble for me to ensure (1).
It's not like such a keyboard is life-changing, but it's a significant improvement in comfort. For a tool that I use every single day that was worth it for me, if others are satisfied with an Amazon Basics model that's fine too; I haven't tried it myself, but I do know that some non-mechanical keyboards offer a great tactile feedback for much lower prices.
Well, sure if it were guaranteed to prevent or cure RSI then either spending hundreds of dollars or getting out the soldering gun would clearly be worth it.
But I suspect you didn't get my point, which is that I spent the $270 in 1997 dollars for a Kinesis Advantage (and later on a different mechanical board) and it did not work for me. Or more precisely it did work for a month or 2 -- not because the Kinesis was more innately ergonomic than any other board, but rather because I wasn't used to it. Once I got used to it, it stopped working.
Or you could get a Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 for $35.
With any curved board, I worry that I will have to pay too much attention to achieve the condition (3) in my previous comment (without my constantly looking at the board, which of course is important to avoid). That was my big problem with the Kinesis Advantage.
For convenience I will now repeat condition (3) from my previous comment: at the moment of contact, the finger tip is moving roughly in the same direction that the key will travel. Keys mounted on a curved PC board will all travel in different directions. My worry is that for me to maintain my condition (3) during my use of such a board will require me to pay an excessive amount of attention to keeping memorized to a sufficient degree of precision the direction of travel of every key. (If I'm not constantly looking at my keyboard, then the only way for me to maintain my condition (3) is to have the travel direction of every key memorized.) When all the keys travel in the same direction, as is the case with any standard keyboard, I only need to keep memorized that single direction.
Also there is a condition (4) not mentioned in my previous post: namely, to strike the key cap roughly at the key's center line, which is made easier when as is the case in a standard keyboard, but is not the case with any of Microsoft's post-2005 ergonomic keyboards, each center line of a key with a letter or number on it is exactly .75 inches from the center line of its neighbors left and right provided the neighbor also has a letter or number on it.
Microsoft's pre-2005 ergonomic keyboards were OK, i.e., not curved. (The direction of travel of the keys on the left half of the board was significantly different from the direction of travel of the keys on the right half, which meant I needed to keep memorized 2 different directions of travel, which was easy enough -- and of course vastly easier than memorizing the 80 or so different directions of travel of any post-2005 Microsoft ergonomic keyboard I am aware of.) I bought 1 or 2 when they were still being produced. My big problem with them was their lack of sufficient "key stability": that is, like most cheap keyboards of the time, the key cap would rotate a lot when struck off the center line or when the direction the tip of the finger is moving on contact with the key cap is not parallel to the key's direction of travel. Among the really cheap keyboards I have used, the Amazon Basics has by far the most key stability. (Its short key travel helps it there. Also, I suspect, but was unable to use a search engine to confirm, it uses a scissor mechanism, which also helps.)
FWIW, I'm a big fan of membrane keyboards now. The MS Sculpt is my current favorite, but mainly because I can't see spending hundreds more on a fancier keyboard that I can't try in person. It's not perfect, but it's a good value for me. IMHO, I think minimizing key travel is a good thing. Take a hint from musicians - unnecessary movement is generally bad.
Sure you might not bother buying the keyboard after clicking through but the affiliate link is tied to you for x days, so they'll get a bit of cash of anything you buy in that time.
Why is it a problem if it doesn't cost you? It costs you the time to read it. Disclosing acknowledges this potential and explains what's going on in advance so you know you're not just reading trash someone wrote to make a quick buck.
What if you found a 2k to 5k word article on something you really wanted to know about and maybe buy.
Also what if that person spent 5,000 hours over 5 years building up their site and only 5% of the posts on their site has an affiliate link for something.
Would you discard that post as trash / scammy because they happened to drop an affiliate link into it because they personally used that product for years before writing about it?
IMO you can't really gauge any of that just by looking for an affiliate notice or not.
I don't make the assessment by looking for affiliate links. I make the assessment on undisclosed affiliate links, which I believe the article was at the time. It's one of many things that could indicate an article written around affiliate links and nothing is perfect.
You've since added disclosure so it's a moot point now :)
I had another 4,000+ word post about monitors from a few years ago.
After 250ish posts it's hard to keep track of everything but I think you are right. That monitor and this keyboard post is the only time I ever specifically wrote about a product.
I write about what I happen to be learning about and using at the moment. Sometimes it's Flask, sometimes it's Vim, sometimes it's finding a useful product or service I came across while doing developer related things (like typing or looking at a monitor for long hours per day). Often times what I write is what I wish I could have read before having to put in all of the hours of research myself.
I'm currently at 1,800 words to explain the use of my affiliate links for an upcoming post. Then I will modify my static site generator to auto-insert a 1 line sentence into any post with an affiliate link.
It will be a couple of hours or even a day for all of that to materialize since I need to balance that into a full day's work but I do want to get it out asap, so maybe tonight I'll be going to bed late. :D
Although for a first pass I just put a small message about the affiliate links at the top of every post that has an affiliate link (15 out of 243 posts btw).
> With the Amazon Basics keyboard I’ve seen as high as a 6 key rollover when pressing spui<space>c
"As high as" implies that you've also seen lower. Which isn't the rollover of the keyboard.
My crappy two-key rollover (QWA fails) keyboard supports that specific keystroke combination.
> Out of everything listed about this keyboard, its rollover is its biggest weakness as it only supports a 2 key rollover in the worst case.
That was in the article when I originally posted it. He even quoted me in his quote with "> Your rollover is the worst possible value you get.".
I fundamentally don't like low profile keyboards where there is barely any perceptible pressing. I don't like cheap plastic. I want a solid, heavy, mechanical board with real keys.
Also, I'm spoiled because I buy custom keyboards where all the labels and colors and configuration is up to me.
Though, no matter how grippy the rubber and how heavy the board, my keyboards always slide. My solution was to buy 4 long angle brackets and double-sided adhesive, and this proved to be a perfect backstop.
Doubleshot PBT keycaps would be the ideal way to ensure the labels never wear off.
I've had a similar problem (although I'm using Windows). I bought a surface keyboard for its thinness, but my wrists were still at a semi-painful angle when typing.
I looked at many wrist pads, but they're all "mushy" and not "wide" enough to support my forearms.
So, to deal with the wrist issue, I "built" this (https://imgur.com/a/cYBksBO) from my kids' Legos. YMMV, but it has worked tremendously well for my wrists and forearms.
If you are bending your wrists to type, then you need to reposition or re-orient the keyboard, and/or change your posture or arm position, or you are setting yourself up for RSI.
For most comfortable typing, neither arms, wrists, nor palms should rest on any surface. But the palms should definitely not be resting directly on the table, even with a low-profile keyboard.
Generally it’s a good idea to have the keyboard close to the edge of the table, and oriented so that its surface is parallel to your forearms while typing. With the keyboard relatively close, the upper arms can remain close to the body with the shoulders relaxed, and the torso and head upright.
Most office workers use a desk which is uncomfortably high for typing when sitting on their chair. So the most obvious first thing to try is lowering the desk, installing an under-desk keyboard tray, raising the chair, adding a booster seat above the existing chair, switching to a standing desk, or similar.
If the furniture can’t be changed, then the keyboard must be tilted up at the back so that when the upper arms are kept close to the body, the keyboard surface sits parallel to the forearms. For many office furniture setups this tilt must be very aggressive (think mid-20th-century typewriter).
Office workers often instead compensate for the high desk by pushing their keyboard far in on the desk, with their elbows either extending out to the side or far in front of the body, and either slouching or hunching their backs, and uncomfortably bending their necks. To take strain off their shoulders they rest elbows, forearms, or palms on the table or an armrest or palmrest. All of these workarounds are causing static muscle load and non-neutral joint positions for the back, neck, shoulders, etc. That’s fine for very short bursts for someone who frequently changes position (and better than having bent wrists), but pretty bad for long stretches for someone who sits in more or less the same position throughout the workday.
My hands aren't on the home row but I do type by touch. I don't look at the keyboard except for a few weird key combos.
I can type for hours without any wrist pain compared to all my other keyboards.
* The Natural 4000 space bar was the worst offender. On my Sculpt Ergonomic, I've lost an 'L' and 'F5'.
I wish there were alternatives that I knew of as it is far and away my favorite and I haven't found much in the way of other options.
I enjoy the Sculpt, enough to buy one for home and office, as well as a replacement when one crapped out (hard to navigate tmux when your prefix key dies!). I can't type on non-ergo keyboards for very long, my wrist pain almost immediately comes back. I'd probably try an amazon basics ergo keyboard if they made one.
I'm sure I could have saved a few dollars over the years by finding the exact right mechanical keyboard and it would have lasted forever, but I can also go on amazon and order a replacement keyboard and get it by Thursday, and not worry about spilling coffee on my $300 hand-crafted, certified organic mx blueberry waffle keycaps.
It hits sweet spot - it is slightly curved but not to the extreme where one would have to re-learn how to type, battery also lasts extremely long. Only issue I have with it is that additional functional keys switch is literally a switch, one needs to change its position to be able to use alternate keys function - for me it would be more convenient to have "Fn" key just like in notebooks keyboards.
Edit: oh and maybe another one - missing physical switch on the back to disable keyboard, now one needs to remove battery or put some scrap of paper/plastic between contacts to completely "power off" device.
When I was looking, my criteria were: comfort, usability (bonus points for a standard layout), and PC/Mac interoperability. The Ergo Sculpt met all of those well, although some individual units seem to not work properly with the Mac.
The best thing is, it only cost $65! Not bad for a tool that’s probably the reason I’m still in the industry 2 years later.
My main problem with it is that it isn't a standard layout. For that reason, I went with the Surface Ergonomic instead, which, while still not standard, is more standard than the Sculpt.
The included mouse feels great, though - at least on Linux, where I could remap the Start button to something useful.
I eventually settled on a Kinesis Advantage 2 [1] with linear switches and is very happy about that.
[1] - https://kinesis-ergo.com/keyboards/advantage2-keyboard/
So... It's a surprisingly serviceable keyboard for $14, as long as you don't know how to type
There was another interesting split keyboard ("SafeType") on Amazon that moves the keys to a vertical position, each hand basically facing the other, that is on my someday list to try if I ever get enough desire to spend more money. Now I see that the freestyle can do that too, but I would want some way to rest the forearms during intermittent use.
I can't type performantly on non-ergonomic non-split non-tilted keyboards any longer, after ~20 years of typing on split ergo keyboards. The way that straight keyboards orient my wrists causes discomfort within an hour or two of use.
In my case the Microsoft battleship keyboard, the 4000, is the only thing I find comfortable. I can type on it all day with zero stress on my wrists or hands. Anything else and I suffer noticeable hand & wrist stress after a full day of work. The base of my hand / wrist area also likes the subtle padding on the 4000, it's just enough to provide some additional comfort without being annoying.
If Microsoft were to bring back the original Natural keyboard today and just replace the PS/2 connector with a USB one, it'd single-handedly improve the line more than 20 years of redesigns have managed to.
They are a different size, height, and actuation. A real killer for people who actually use FN keys.
I used to go for Microsoft split-ergo, and before that, the Logitech split one until it was discontinued. No more. FS2 may look funny but it's great for hands and the silent caps don't cause aural disturbances either.
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-73P2620-Enhanced-Performance-K...
Turns out it's basically silent to type on, which was very nice at the time because my dad would always wake up from the keyboard noise and get after us to go to sleep.
Served the same useful purpose in college when I had roommates.
The thing these days that I like most about it is that it's completely flat, which means I can rest my wrists on the desk and not get weird RSI issues from my wrists being out of alignment.
The main complaint people have ever had about using it is that it forces you to learn how to hit the keys exactly on center because just hitting them on the edge will cause the silicone to buckle without hitting the switch. Really I think it's made me a better typist overall.
They do tend to break maybe every five years or so. More often if you pick it up or attempt to at all take advantage of the "roll up" feature.
Also it's sealed, so if something spills on it, you just needs to wipe it up and no harm done.
The idea of also using it to pause scrolling console text, I think, originated in Linux.
That original keyboard did not have separate arrow and pgup/pgdown (cursor control) keys, and numlock was how one toggled between the calculator keypad being 'numbers' vs. cursor controls (see the image above). The current 'separated' cursor controls and number pad layout arrived sometime during the IBM AT era, and at that point the 'numlock' key started to make less sense. It was kept around for backwards compatibility with old software that used the state of the numlock key to change its behavior (and/or that relied on the exact scan codes output by the number keypad in combination with the state of the numlock bit).
Then, one day, on a bare terminal, output was flying by that I needed to read. The lightbulb went on, and I pressed the key.
This is one cost-cutting area that drives me nuts. As the PC price wars raged on, keyboards got cheaper and cheaper. Wires got thinner, and shorter. HP/Dell give you something like a 3 foot cable these days. You can't keep your PC on the floor or route around monitors anmymore.
I liked the old days, where you got a 6+ feet long cord on your keyboard.
Having mouse too far at the right side or adjust to using left hand for mouse does not seem to be a good tradeoff just to have a numpad, which gets close to zero use.
filco ninja majestouch tenkeyless with silent red mx cherrys is definitely better at every aspect than this amazon basic kb (except the price).
I see no reason why anyone should buy this keyboard over the one that probably came with their computer.
Unique features, like doubleshot keycaps, N-key rollover, layers and macros, actuation that is seperated from the bottom-out, good build quality, and more can all be found on a decent mechanical keyboard.
Also, mechanical keyboards don't have to be loud! Linear and tactile Matias switches, Cherry MX/Gateron silents, and Topre are all great keyswitches that are as quiet, if not more, than your standard rubber dome.
At least so far, I've won that lottery. I'll take it.
IIRC he also has a course where he teaches you to build a SaaS app with flask, but you don't build it from scratch - he starts with a fully built app and walks you through it/has you implement parts of it. It's a project he used for clients, and instead of investing time to reimplement it from scratch he just made a course based on the existing app (which is fine and better than no course, but an example of his frugality)
[0] https://nickjanetakis.com/blog/build-a-home-made-standing-de...
[1] https://nickjanetakis.com/blog/transform-a-toshiba-chromeboo...
I don't think those are fair comparisons but if you did buy my course, thanks for the support (it really helps).
Now for the fun stuff, let's break down those posts you linked!
I built the standing desk because it fits my exact use case for what I want in a standing desk and I have the ability to build it, so I built it. Price wasn't even a factor, it just so happens you can build something cool for $50 so I did it.
I wanted a 3 tier desk:
A top tier for my 2 monitors
A middle tier for my keyboard and mouse to fit exactly at the height where my posture is perfect
And finally a bottom tier for my regular desk with enough room where I can use a laptop and do other "desk things" without the standing portion getting in the way. I also happened to have this regular desk beforehand and think it's a great size for my office. I had no reason to switch it.
Very shortly after building it, I built a 4th tier where I now have a stylus / drawing pad hovering over my keyboard on a ledge and it doesn't get in the way so I can draw live slides in my courses. You can see a picture in another blog post you missed where I built an 8x4 whiteboard for $15[0] (:D). Oh and my mic's boom arm latches on from the side now where it doesn't get in my way at all and minimizes keyboard rumble.
There's no standing desk at any price point that accomplishes all of the above in a way that works for me. To me what I built is the perfect desk because it addresses everything I need it to address. The fact it was only $50 (well $60 now due to adding that 4th tier) is just a nice side effect.
[0]: https://nickjanetakis.com/blog/build-your-own-8x4-foot-white...
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As for the Toshiba Chromebook. After dozens of hours of research and a few recommendations I picked it up because it's an amazing piece of hardware. A 1080p display, IPS panel, good keyboard, good trackpad, upgradeable SSD, weighs less than 3 pounds, SD card, USB ports, 3.5" jack (!), decent battery life and it runs native Linux.
Why wouldn't I use it? Sure it costs $350 (fairly cheap in price) but why would I purposely spend more money for something equal or worse just for the sake of it? I still use it all the time 3+ years later and it's working fine for what I use it for (a portable computing device where I can do on the road dev work or comfortably read outside or in bed).
If you squint you can see that Toshiba getting some usage when I went to Cloud Field Day last year. I'm in the back left: http://nickjanetakis.com/assets/blog/cards/coming-back-to-cl...
> IIRC he also has a course where he teaches you to build a SaaS app with flask, but you don't build it from scratch - he starts with a fully built app and walks you through it/has you implement parts of it. It's a project he used for clients, and instead of investing time to reimplement it from scratch he just made a course based on the existing app (which is fine and better than no course, but an example of his frugality)
We don't build it from scratch because it's a very involved app. It has 4,000+ lines of just Flask code. You can't make a video course and code something like that up line by line from scratch. It would be an unreasonable amount of video (possibly even approaching 100 hours of video), and when I asked thousands of people if they would rather have an 80+ hour course or a ~10 hour course they all picked 10 hours.
This is also made aware on the course description's FAQ at https://buildasaasappwithflask.com (near the bottom, 2nd FAQ item down from the top) so I'm not trying to hide it and we also do cover every single line of the code and you get to see it all come together from 1 file to the final app in stages, and you have git diffs to see what changed between each section. There's also 50 to 100 hours worth of coding exercises to add features into the app to get experience building specific things.
That decision wasn't due to frugality. It was out of necessity and user feedback. It also took me almost half a year of full time work to make the course. If anything it would have been faster to do it live from scratch because then I wouldn't have had to break things up so carefully into sections. The course is based on -some- existing production code I used in the past, but that's not a negative thing. It just means I used well tested code in the course instead of building some untested toy example for the sake of the course.
---
Lastly, just to wrap up, you skipped commenting on my audio / video set up. I spent close to $1,000 on everything and the reason I spent that much is because I felt it made a big enough difference in the quality of my audio to warrant spending that amount.
I could have just bought a Blue Yeti for $100 bucks and called it a day (I actually did this in the past, which I didn't factor into the above cost since I don't use it anymore) but I didn't stick with it because I believe the set up I use now produces better audio than my older videos. Basically I spend money when I feel like it makes a positive difference.
If there were a $100 keyboard that's better than the one I'm using now in every way shape and form with zero compromises I would instantly buy it, but I don't feel like typing is my bottleneck and I haven't found such a keyboard.
> I built the standing desk because it fits my exact use case
Maybe, but I don't think my original comment was unreasonable. Funnily enough, today I went to hackernews and the top comment on story is a guy who put a black garbage bag on his bedroom window to blackout the light[0]. Then I realized that guy was you.
I had an immediate problem that I wanted solved that day (to prepare for that night). I thought about how I can block light and the only thing that came to mind was a black bag. It worked amazingly well and I guess it ended up being a top comment because it's something everyone can try with minimal effort / investment.
Now that I know it's possible to block out so much light, I will upgrade the trash bag to something less ridiculous looking.
Think of the black bag as whipping up a proof of concept that ended up being quite effective. Switching it to black out curtains is the refactor. That sure beats not taking any action on the first day, ordering curtains without even knowing what to get and if it would work and then having to wait for shipping.
The trash bag isn't a question of being cheap. It's being pragmatic.
But nothing could really replace my keyboard at home.
I just can't get away from my Lexmark Model M - I love the buckling spring sound and feel, I love the "heft", I like the fact it has a built in "pen holder" ridge at the top, I love that it's almost 30 years old and going strong. I love that it still uses the PS/2 connector. I love that it's beige in a world that's forgotten what computers used to look like. I love that it doesn't have any "microsoft logo" keys.
Dunno if I could ever really replace it. I have a backup Model M if I ever need to. Plus a Unicomp USB classic in black. Then an old SGI keyboard (that needs an adapter/converter box or something built for it to be usable - another project for another day).
But this Amazon keyboard does look intriguing on it's own, so maybe I throw down the bit of money and try it. Might be worthwhile for those times I need or want a quieter keyboard...
The Windows logo is on the Meta key. Super (and Hyper) are other keys.
It wasn't anything fancy, but it worked. They were dirt cheap, like $7 on eBay, and we had piles of them from buying new PC's for teh rest of the office.
If you, like me at times, bounce around between various machines with mini keyboards, trackpad keyboards, laptops with various function keys, arrow key layouts, integrated/adjacent numpad and nav key clusters, etc: it can be a relief to find something where your fingers just know where to go. I request the Microsoft Wired Desktop 600 in all the mini server/dedicated function computers we build for this reason.
My personal machines have a mechanical Rosewill keyboard. I like and quickly readjust to my old ThinkPad's 7-row layout for laptops, but don't always have that available.
This is a hill I would die on: wth did Lenovo ruin the greatest laptop keyboard is beyond me.
The lack of the 7th row mades many of my go-to shortcuts unwieldy (Winkey + Pause/Break) or impossible; e.g., ALT+codes for non-Latin characters.
I shouldn't have to open charmap.exe to get a stinkin' em dash.
/rant
My workstation keyboard is a Ducky One with MX Browns and doubled bumper rings ... but I already have leds dying after two years <sadface>. fwiw, I'm interested in a Topre or Topre style key action for my next primary keyboard, whenever that happens. /aamof, I'm going now to comb the comments for any specific mention of those.../
I get not liking the click of mechanical switches. I mean, I like the click, but I understand it is well in the realm of personal preference.
But the Amazon Basics keyboard is legitimately trash. It doesn't adhere to keyboard HID profiles, so there are systems on which it just doesn't work (like the Raspberry Pi). I have very little room in my life for basic IO devices that don't work reliably on all of my systems.
But also, the build quality is terrible. It feels like a $14 keyboard. Thin, plasticy, sharp edges. I have used a lot of keyboards and this one is legitimately the most painful and unpleasant one I've ever used.
This just comes off as intentionally contrarian navel gazing.
I've never been stabbed by it and the corners are all rounded. The long edge running across the bottom under the spacebar is the only thing that could maybe be described as sharp but it's nothing like the edge of a piece of wood or anything sharp. I wouldn't have even noticed it after years of usage without you mentioning it. I've also never once hit it with my hands.
I also used the device on Debian without issues. It just worked out of the box. No idea about a Raspberry Pi but Google mentions others are using it without problems.
Maybe you had an older model of this keyboard?
I could never go back to having a 'normal' keyboard after I've enjoyed writing my own layouts. I use normal qwerty for the alpha keys, but almost everything else is changed.
Should also note, mechanical doesn't necessarily mean clicky or loud. I have 7 or 8 mech keyboards and some of them have silent switches and are basically noiseless, others make a little bit of sound but not much. I don't like 'clicky' switches.
1) Backlit (soo addicted to this) 2) Quiet 3) Has media keys (volume/mute/play/pause/etc, and ideally calculator)
There's not a ton of options out there. My Corsair K55 is good but flawed (stupid useless "programmable" macro keys that can't be rebound, wonky electronics don't let the computer boot properly the first time, doesn't actually store the config onboard). It's not all that quiet, either.
I'd pay more for a better one, but I can't tell if they meet my needs since the descriptions are rarely aiming for what I'm looking for.
[1] https://www.amazon.com/VELOCIFIRE-TKL02-Mechanical-Copywrite...
if a keyboard actually matters to you, please look for unbiased information.
a couple of suggestions that aren't just meant to net me a few bucks:
- tenkeyless reduce wrist strain (a full size keyboard forces your hands further apart than is natural). if you need a numpad you can always add one.
- consider a backlit if you work at night.
- mechanical keyboards tend to last forever and they are easy to clean because all the keys come off.
- non mechanical are quieter
happy coding!
The bundled mouse is rubbish. Don't get that unless there's a better deal on the bundle and then toss it.
For a few years now I've been using a Microsoft 600 which seems very similar to the Amazon Basic, including the price range.
Not too much to lose.
I have purchased, or somehow gotten, at least 15 mechanical keyboards (and 10+ membrane-or-whatever keyboards) over the past 25 years.
Most of the cheap rubber-membrane-or-whatever keyboards failed within a few years, although there are some that kept on working.
But none of the mechanical ones did: Apple Extended Keyboard II (two of them) lasted 20+ years, IBM Model M, Unicomp Model M clone, Das Keyboard somethin something with Cherry MX blue/brown, 3 or 4 chinese knockoffs with cherry knockoff switches, two or three Mattias mechanical keyboards, 4 Filcos, 3 Code Keyboards (the WASM + Jeff Atwood venture) a couple Japanese hackety hacker boards... plus like 5-10 more at least.
None of them ever failed. I gave them away or whatever eventually but probably the average time span of which I was aware of them being in use is 15+ years.
So what Amazon may have innovated here is a mechanical keyboard that can fail as fast as the new rubber membrane inferior crap that came later?
This is some generic rubber-dome over membrane keyboard.
So, Amazon made a status quo membrane keyboard. OK, uh, then yeah I guess I'll just move on then.
When I look at it from the side you can see the keys sink towards the middle, but it's a lot less than other keyboards where this feature is more distinct. It's much less than the Thinkpads.
Thanks for the tip though. As I was writing the post I was thinking about what other characteristics there were of keyboards and I never thought about that one.
I'm 46 years old, been programming a computer since I was 10 (TRS-80 Color Computer 2 - with the "melted" keyboard - not exactly ergo), and I currently use a classic Model M (not a Unicomp - a real one made by Lexmark, that inexplicably has the flow-thru option on it for some reason - bit of a unicorn from what I gather).
I've used keyboards in my career of all types, including ones on a VT-100, VT-220, and WYSE-320, 370, and 380...
I have never had any RSI issues. Not saying it can't happen, but one would think something would've happened by now...
It has a pretty different compact layout and very nice keys that arent loud.
Dropped.
Skepticism is good, but you should also be skeptical of the first conclusion it leads you to.
I spent about 3,000 hours over 5 years writing the content on my site asking nothing in return. The affiliate sales on my site help pay for hosting and I don't think it's scammy to drop them in when it applies. I also think it would be a little weird if I started every article that has an affiliate link with a 5 paragraph disclaimer to justify why I am using that link, but maybe I should write a post about that and then drop a 1 liner link somewhere.
Literally opening a lemonade stand as a grown man would be more profitable than what I make on affiliate sales on my site if you factor in hourly rates.
As a reader you wouldn't be weirded out if the first section of the article was to justify why an affiliate link was used?
That would annoy me as a reader a lot more than having an affiliate link used without mention. I mean, I'm not sitting there trying to trick people into clicking links. The blog post is just an honest look / opinion on the keyboard. If you decide to click and buy one, that's cool. If you close the article in 5 seconds after skimming around, that's cool too.
Nope, and as the flagging of this article shows, it's worse without disclosure.
It's not just an ethical requirement, it's a legal one. (I believe Amazon's affiliate program guidelines requires disclosure)
Good call, I just found it in their agreement in section 5: https://affiliate-program.amazon.com/help/operating/agreemen...
Technically I do mention it on my site but maybe it's not clear enough since I only wrote about it once or twice in a comment on a different post.
I'm working on something now to make this more apparent on all pages that have an affiliate link (which is less than 10 out of ~300 pages).
https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/blog/2017/09/if-influencers-are...
You've established the article is just about the Amazon Basics keyboard; just refer to it as the keyboard for the rest of the story.
Way too clickbaity/SEO method of writing it.
I did that because I talk about other keyboards through out the article and when people skim it gets hard to track what "their" or "the" really means (especially if they are clicking links).
If you do a search for "the keyboard" you'll see I use that phrase 9 times and "their keyboard" twice. When combined together that's more often than I use "Amazon Basics keyboard", so I'm not just spamming phrases for SEO. If anything doing that will de-value your page rank for keyword stuffing.
I mentioned the keyboard by name the least amount of times to keep the article skimmable and making it clear that when you click a link, it's leading to that keyboard. In other words, it's a UI feature not a bug!
I don’t know why all that would be needed. Even if you just stuck in a parenthetical “(affiliate link)” mention after the link, i would have a hard time saying there was anything scammy going on.
As someone who is naturally skeptical, I will keep in this mind more. Thanks.
It feels easy to be skeptical of others, yet much harder to be skeptical of one's own thoughts - for me anyways.
edit: apparently there's an affiliate link. Didn't see it on first read. Still a good keyboard imo though...
This is a personal message, and not openly sponsored. There is an affiliate link used, which is to say, the blog author likely hopes to make money off his post (even if that's not the primary impetus for his writing.)
As people that use products such as keyboards, I think we're receptive to well-documented personal messages about the products we enjoy using. I don't imagine anyone will get rich off this blog post, and I doubt that was the reason it was written.
If you're a professional who uses the keyboard regularly, unless you have some special needs or wants, why wouldn't you go with an ergonomic keyboard as the base option.
I'm the author of the post. I've used this keyboard for half a decade before I decided to write about it.
If you read a few paragraphs of the article you'll see I am using this "generic" keyboard because it's great.
Typing is also a pretty important thing for programmers and I've seen plenty of like/dislike posts about various keyboards. It very much applies to developers.
Actually posting this taught me a pretty good lesson on how hard it is not to be anonymous on the internet. That and I need to drop a 1 liner in the very few posts I have that contain affiliate links.
That said, I'm not sure why anyone is too upset at you for this. From my experience running many sites that use affiliate links, I can't imagine you're making any significant income from the affiliate links anyway, not to mention that's obviously not the purpose of this article.