I too have been using react professionally for the last 5 years and I have the opposite take on it - I still love it as much as when I started using it. I'm a solo dev so I get to control quality end-to-end, perhaps this is where our difference in opinion stems from.
I have no doubt there is tons of awful react code out there written by noobs but the same can be said for practically any software engineering endeavor.
I'll concede that it takes time + effort to understand how to best use react but it's merely a tool and you need experience and insight to understand how best to use your tools. I try to use as little state as possible and use functional components everywhere I can. Hooks have been a big help.
I agree about having reservations with GraphQL, it doesn't seem ready for primetime to me although I'm keeping a close eye on it because I like the underlying concept.
JS is a "huge noobfest" imo because webdev is so accessible and prevalent. But today's noobs are tomorrow's professionals ;) Typescript has been a very welcome development to encourage better dev practices.