Changes that are backwards incompatible (but do not result in mass rebuilds) can and will often just go to master directly. For example, NixOS module changes rarely result in mass rebuilds, even if it breaks an API -- but changing the default kernel version does. The latter would go to staging.
I exclusively use the unstable branch on all my Nix/NixOS machines. I rarely do rollbacks. But it's important to note that I'm a developer with commit access, so I can basically "just" fix things if they're problematic. Not everyone has that luxury. (Many Linux distro maintainers likely operate this way, I guess. :)
There have been events in the past where unstable has had changes that made rollback impossible. In particular, if the bootloader becomes unstable somehow, your rollback capabilities are toast (and you won't know until you reboot, when it's too late). But I don't think anything like that has happened in a long time...