GBA is very well documented (gbatek). The DS seems to be as well, but it's much harder to work with. GBA is much easier, but still powerful enough to do non trivial things without having to do them all in assembly. Emulator support is superb. Hardware adapters that allow you to load ROMs have been around forever.
I'd say it's one of the best systems to get into on-the-metal Homebrew.