It's $35, it boots off the shelf Ubuntu, it has a real graphics chip, it does what it says it does. It doesn't have RF shields, and was probably designed cheaply, but it's $35.
Aside from the RasbperryPI (which obviously isn't x86) the review compares it to items which are 3x in price.
Admittedly, I assume that 3x price is probably closer to what the actual retail would be for this without the surplus angle. I think it being surplus is cool in a hacker kinda way, but I do see an issue there if you're concerned about longterm support.