And yes, it is not very robust, I broke one PCB arm but could fix it without affecting the balance too much.
The bigger problem was encountered when it flew out of reach. I had an xbox 360 controller connected to a xbox wireless dongle on my laptop, running crazyflie SW, connected to crazyfly via another dongle. Tested it in a city park (somebody attended to the laptop).
I moved a bit away from the laptop setup while trying to learn to fly it (manual leveling is hard). I don't know which wireless connection failed first. But the result was, it just kept running the last instruction, and flying up, up and away. Luckily the battery failed when it was up about 50-100 meters, and had drifted away about 100m horizontally due to wind.
I was sweating like hell, picturing scenarios of it coming down on a car windshield and causing a surprised driver to crash, etc. Luckily it came down within the same park. Without new damage to drone, or third parties!
Lessons learned: Don't fly an indoor drone outdoors, it's not built to resist wind and doesn't have SW safe for it. And never, ever fly any drone outdoors without model plane liability insurance.
Or be able to run fast ... ;-)
A lot of the time ArduPilot is installed with a flight computer (separate from the flight controller) which sends control signals inline with the RC receiver and can be retrofit onto an existing drone.
You can also pick up pretty inexpensive kits to retrofit any DIY quadcopter or RC aircraft with autopilot capability. Two examples are the older APM2.8 hardware (no longer supported, dirt cheap) and the Pixhawk PX4 (actively supported, more expensive but still <$200.)
There's definitely a lot of different decisions you can make on the hardware side: Choosing what sensors you include, flight computer & flight controller, ESCs and motors, frame, and so on.
On the other hand, you could also choose to build a drone from a kit or ready-to-fly model, and experiment more with higher-level software. ArduPilot can be connected to ROS, which is the standard software platform for robotics. Much of the swarming behavior, visual tracking, and other experiments are done on a platform like ROS, which then sends waypoints or other instructions to the flight computer.
Some areas to research if you're into this:
ArduPilot (Firmware handling waypoint missions, guidance, etc. on an onboard flight controller): https://ardupilot.org/copter/index.html
MavLink (Standard serial protocol used to communicate with drones, used to communicate between an ArduPilot controller and a ground station): https://mavlink.io/en/
ROS (Software platform designed for robotics, commonly ArduPilot drones feed into a ROS system for swarm experiments etc.): https://www.ros.org/
A small <250g drone is in the $70-$100 price range, although you will also need a $70+ radio transmitter or some heavy hacking to control it. Most of the (hundreds) of supported control boards are not open hardware in the schematics sense, but some are.
The all-in-one PCB integration strategy is cute, but I really don't think it's a great approach from a crash-recovery point of view.
Spot on.
However, it's a nice way to lure you into building a quad: just put some motors on, and you're good to go.
Fly once, crash, and then go actually build a proper quad.
In typical indoor use (can't get more than a few meters high, unlikely to go faster than a few m/s), this'll crash way more than one time before it show any signs of damage to anything except the (replaceable) props. (Sure, you won't be handing it down to your grandkids in your will, but it's not as disposable as "fly once, crash, throw it away"...)
About vibration dampening, if you look at the maiden flight here https://discuss.ardupilot.org/t/ardubee-a-ready-to-fly-micro...
Don't you think the untuned ArduBee was flying already nicely?
The graph of the postfilter acc and gyro is not so bad, the new Dynamic Notch Filter technics in Ardupilot is working so good. Furthermore, the best in his class IMU is put in the center of the frame, where the single 18650 battery, the most of the mass, is fixed in place.
Just some pointers if you want to do this:
- you need some companion computer on your drone.
- GPS alone is not precise enough, you'll get wierd drifts from it all the time, you want something like RTK GPS to be able to keep stuff together.
- If you want your positioning to relie on vision, get a global shutter camera, a rolling shutter will make your life harder than it needs to be.
Isn't the entire point of these things that they fly themselves? That's why we call them drones and not R/C helis, right?
Why can't I just click "go" on my GUI, and never purchase a TX? Or can I and the distinction just isn't explained in a place that I've found it?
They assume you have a transmitter, because a majority of non parrot drone users are flying analog.
We lost that fight a long time ago.
(And I'm not even sure we were "right" to be honest. The term "drone" got used back in WW2 era for radio controlled aircraft used for target practice. There sure as hell were not autonomous... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radioplane_OQ-2 )
Here (.au) I'm technically not allowed to fly FPV (where I'm watching a camera view from the air thru goggles or on a screen) without having another person ready to immediately take manual control who's watching/flying "LOS" (line of sight) and complying with the regular model aircraft pilot rules.
Practically nobody actually does this, but almost everybody holds some form of manual controller and is ready to take their goggles off or look away from the screen and fly the drone manually as a regular model aircraft.
If you _want_ to "just click go on the GUI", at least some of the DJI stuff will allow you to do that. I've got a DJI Spark that I can connect/control via wifi from an iPad, and software that lets me define a mission and just click fly without needing a controller. There's still an advantage to having the controller though, it's radio as way better range than an iPad's wifi, the wifi drops out and I lose the video link (while the drone keeps flying its uploaded mission) at a hundred or so meters. If the drone and the iPad both connect instead to the DJI controller, I'll get reliable video at well over 1km. One other reason I almost always use the controller is I'm much happier launching/landing in tight locations if I fly the last few meters manually. I'll sit on the back ledge of the car boot and land 1m away from the car flying manually, but I don't trust the drone/GPS quite enough to do that, and will always find a fairly large (at least 10mx10m or so if I can) area to let it land in if it's flying totally autonomously.
You absolutely _can_ build an ArduPilot drone that takes commands and tries to fly a mission end-to-end without intervention, but without a real-time TX link of some form, you are in hot water when it fails.
What is impressive it the integration on this drone : that give a good flight time with low weight. That is a big advantage against current weight based regulation in numerous country. And of course ArduPilot integration give hight capabilities !
ESP8266 with Ardupilot (telemetry and control) https://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-esp8266-telemetry.h...
BLHeli_32 ESC Telemetryhttps://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-dshot-blheli32-tele...
If you add sensors it does add up though, you're right.