With Hooks I’m happy in that most of the “business logicky” stuff can be split out into those and my components have returned to being pretty much entirely UI code - I don’t really use any of those weird in-between tags like <Query> anymore.
Transpilation will happen if you want to use new JS features at all. If you use React without JSX and not using any ES6 features, then you can certainly support old browsers without those transpilation steps - just include the compiled CDN-distributed script in a script tag like jQuery, it’s even advertised in the React getting started docs. Just turns out nobody wants to do that.
I agree that SSR is a crazy story though and I hope someone makes something better - but jQuery doesn’t really help with that at all, bootstrapping state from a different machine than the runtime and not incurring state weirdness/security vulnerabilities seems like a generally difficult problem, not a React-specific one. NextJS (and maybe prerender snapshotting) seems like the only decent options right now.