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Matomo is my user tracking of choice, it honors DNT by default and is self-hostable or can be run as a hosted service.

Matomo was formerly known as Piwik

Matomo is great and it's nice that it's open source. One advantage of userTrack, which is also self-hosted, is that you get heatmaps and session recordings at no extra cost, which on Matomo cost from 200eur/year.

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