Agreed about not looking at the keys. I know this is HN and people are always looking for technical solutions, but sometimes the best solution is the easiest.
I learned to type in college over a few weeks one summer while I was typing abstracts into a database. I thought I would never finish the work because I couldn’t type, so I forced myself to learn to touch type. I didn’t even put stickers on the keys; but I really think having real sentences to type, on topics that were of interest to me, helped. However, on the technology side, I have to admit, the clicky Apple II keyboard, with the cupped keys, was a benefit. But, if kids can learn to “type” on glass (mobile devices) as fast as they do, I think all it really takes is time and dedication.