Even if it were in a place that was accessible and subject to repairable damage, you would not see it welded or cut. First off a lot of it isn't physically possible to weld; it's in very deep (6") pockets and you'd have a huge amount of difficulty getting penetration. Second, welding aluminum is not super easy. Anyone can weld steel, aluminum isn't the worst but it is much trickier. Third, aluminum welds create a weakness in the aluminum around the weld, because it gets hot but isn't properly tempered as it cools. It's still strong, but the loss is significant- temper is responsible for ~70% of the strength of common aluminum alloys. Fourth, the weld and the surrounding area are very weak (<40% strength) for several days after the repair. It's a huge pain in the ass and you probably can't just let somebody drive off on it.
When the car is in design process, each weld is carefully calculated to provide the exact binding force at the precise location. In case of accident, the car is modeled to crumble just right to absorb maximum energy without compromising cabin space, thus protecting occupants. The process of cutting out and welding in parts almost always means altering the stiffness of such bonds (and/or moving the bonds to different locations), which can be very dangerous in the event of accident
Welds are key to most bicycle frames and they are not known as the part that's likely to fail.
And the point about welders leaves a dangling, open ended implication that invites anyone reading the sentence to just go ahead and assume that poor weld jobs leading to immenent danger are happening all the time. But are they? Or is that just being noted as a hypothetical possibility? I'm having a hard time telling whether a possible or probable danger is being asserted here.
So for most people welding like that is not in the cards, but a trained and meticulous professional can do miracles (or close to miracles). It starts to get really interesting when you start hanging stuff from your welds, for instance when building an overhead crane.
Welding lifting rings onto stuff is not really a high bar. High quality welds are easy if the materials you're dealing with are easy. Stuff that is exotic, expensive and hard to work with is the stuff that takes real skill because it's really hard to get a ton of practice at those things (there's only so much magnesium alloy that needs welded) so you need a lot of skill and experience in varied circumstances to do a high quality job from the get go.
I can weld and I can dick around in a bash shell but I'm much better at the one that is my current day job that I do for ~40hr a week.
For "easy" material combinations you can get away with a surprising amount of corner cutting and still pass a bend test. Good welds aren't hard. A community college will have you passing a bend test on an overhead weld in a semester and doing the same for pipe in two but it will all be in steel and a limited variety of consumables and processes. Those kids might be masters of 7018 but hand them some aluminum electrodes and they'll be lost. Good welds the first or nearly the first time on material + consumable combo on which you only burn say 10lb a year is what really takes practice.
Once you do that though, it is actually true, and even then you may see stress cracks next to the weld if the change in thickness is too abrupt. You need to gradually thin down or you'll get a focal point for stresses.
Because of how thermally conductive it is it doesn't work the same way.
The safety critical structural elements of their cars are a mixture of mild and high strength steel[0].
[0] https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-3-body-structure-steel...
Which is certainly a safety critical structural element.
Additionally, glues are not stronger than aluminum. I don't know if you're thinking of a composite resin (eg glass fiber), but normal adhesives are weaker even than pure aluminum, which is ~5x weaker than all the commonly used (copper age-hardening) alloys of aluminum.
If you're going to read my post with the worst possible interpretation then try to correct that uncharitable reading, I just have no interest in a discussion.
If you had specified an adhesive when you first wrote the comment, sorry- I managed to not see it. I don't know of any "steel reinforced epoxy" besides JB weld (which generally should not be used on anything bigger than a lawnmower), but it and actual 3M vehicle adhesives[1] are a full 10x weaker in shear and 15-20x weaker in tension that plain boring 6061.
[1]: https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1467016O/07333-irsa-tech...