I've been coding C++ since 1996, and to this day it is still a joy. I do a lot of back end node/typescript, and after dealing with the loosy goosy types and stuff in that language, coming back to a concrete hard core language that requires a much higher intellect to write in, is frankly refreshing.
I've always felt writing in C++ requires much more skill, and that alone is a very rewarding experience. I can tune things like arena allocators and make string operations insanely fast, things I agree most problems simply don't require, but still, its a craft that I feel very proud of conquering, and every day you learn something new.
So if you like a challenge, if you like learning, or maybe if you simply enjoy flexing your brain cells a bit more then most, C++ delivers that on all fronts.
As for whether it deserves a bad rap, that's a little too generalized of a statement, and it reeks of dogma. Ignore dogma, dive in, learn for yourself what you think sucks or doesn't.