I have tons of personal anecdotes which would make this post a hell lot longer. But for feelers, these days your ordinary mid level bribe making government employee is worth around 500 crores. For the western readers, that is in the ball park of $60 to $70 million. Higher up the hierarchy, the assistants to ruling party ministers, top bureaucracy, district level administration, or head of government organizations average twice to thrice that easily. The politicians themselves are likely in the ballpark of a few billion dollars worth.
The bribe market in India is so hot, you need to pay bribes, to get posted to positions where you can make more bribe. There's an entire corruption economy. So immense that it would dwarf anything real you could make working hard. Most of these people have regular meets and hire top lawyers to work around legally. They also pay-up the hierarchy for protection.
By the way it's not just some evil cabals meeting underground. Parents explicitly aspire their kids get these jobs. People spend bulk of their 20's just on entrance examinations, just for this.
The scale of corruption economy in India is just so mind boggling, it would be hard to explain any non-Indian just really how immense and all pervasive it is.
When it comes to illegal territory money the Forbes wealth lists are just a gigantic joke.
The problem with this system in modern times is that incentives are unaligned to objectives.
There is no free lunch, might not be even for the restaurant people too. My guess is the restaurant people were having their own motivations why they allow them to eat for free.
In a corrupt society. Corruption begets corruption. Eventually money is just a means to trade things/services, if you have money going around that doesn't account for things/services, very likely there is tons of cheat/corrupt economy. Imagine this like a kind of inflation, on top of existing inflation.
Corruption really interferes with the proper functioning of markets. Does indirection lessen the effect?
If US were to be as corrupt as India, imagine the DMV employees asking for a $500 bribe just for a State Id Card. Or asking for bribes for as little as a $50 bribe to even issue a form at the Social Security Office.
That's like just the beginning of it.
She needed to register for her identity card so she went to her local police station and filled out the forms. Gets a call a week later - “oh sorry, one of the forms was filled out incorrectly, can you come back and fill it out again?”. Sure, no problem.
A week later “oh, one of the forms filled out was the wrong form. I have the right one now, can you come fill it out?”. Well this is silly, but ok.
A week later “it turns out you need a form from the district as well, please fill that out and bring it in”. This is stupid, but she does it.
A week later “oh, that form had the wrong stamp on it, you need to fill out a new form and get the right stamp”.
A this point it was obvious - she went to police station, explained that the stamp was the correct one and oh, yeah, by the way, I know you’re working hard so let me give you some coffee money ($10 USD in local currency).
She had the identity document the next day.
I personally experienced a modern anecdote of this while I worked for a public works project in northern CA. This project was estimated to bring a significant amount of economic activity to the area so we were all “bribed”.
Even now in the US it’s a lot about who you know.
Compare with:
> When I approached the restaurant staff and expressed my intention to pay, they were horror stricken
Here they instead fear something bad would happen, if they don't pay (offer the food for free)?
It's still norm to bribe local officials so they will go easy on the businesses, such as speedy things up when dealing with the local gov, not enforcing laws when the business wants to pay less taxes.. etc.
You are basically suggesting that the restaurant intentionally let a first time visitor (you) who they didn't know & trust to know the special relationship they have with the "chief of police". Why would they do that? A revenge to get rid of the guy?
It is also pretty strange to have "chief of police" accepting such high risk and low value "free meal" as gift. As a corrupted official, will you feel comfortable walking into a restaurant fitted with security cameras to enjoy your "free meal"? Sounds like a failed IQ test to me.
The restaurant staff did not betray any information to me. That is why they were horrified. It put them in a diffiuclt position. I assume that they would not accept my money because of the risk that it might flow back to the chief that I had paid.
Also I didn't totally understand your point, since the host paying for the meal is the only right thing to do in the Chinese culture. Of course, when it was in 2001, the police chief probably covered the meal using public money, if by corruption this is what you mean. (By no means would the restaurant be asked to just give out food for free.) As someone also pointed out, this has become much harder after Xi's crackdown on such spending.