As someone who has heavily used both REST and GraphQL in the past and actively, I find this comparison heavily similar to using raw HTML versus React. When it really boils down, GraphQL is just REST with types and the capability of performing multiple requests in one. Much like React is a way of creating component types from HTML elements.
GraphQL takes a bit more work to get setup and running, but it's soo worth it in the end if you value typing. One of the most impressive parts of GQL that REST isn't capable of having, is the vast tooling ecosystem enabled by a standardly typed data transfer model, the fact that anyone can write a library that can automatically hook into your model is incredibly powerful.
I find most people who have negative opinions on GraphQL simply haven't taken the dive yet to fully understand it, and they typically overthink what it actually does. In my opinion, if you're writing a progressive web/mobile app with relational data, you should hands down be using GraphQL.