For write operations you could do a similar trick to select a new version of each value based on the query key matching. You are in effect writing all rows, but using the old value when you don't want to change it.
Now, due to some quirks of FHE you can only do this write operation a limited number of times before you have to perform a more expensive operation called bootstrapping to "refresh" ciphertexts. I find bootstrapping to be the coolest part of homomorphic encryption: you encrypt the secret key itself with homomorphic encryption and then use it to decrypt inside FHE. The result is still encrypted but closer to a freshly encrypted ciphertext.