Because the author Tom Scocca didn't delve deeper into the meta layer of language usage to see that many people are using the word "caramelize" differently from him. They are not lying. To paraphrase Ludwig Wittgenstein, "problems in philosophy are actually problems in language".
Wikipedia article makes a distinction between caramelize vs browning:
>Like the Maillard reaction, caramelization is a type of non-enzymatic browning. Unlike the Maillard reaction, caramelization is pyrolytic, as opposed to being a reaction with amino acids. -- from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caramelization
But the above internal chemistry definitions are not how many people are using the word. To many folks, "caramelize" == "browning/sautéing/frying/softening" ... which means it can be done in 5 to 10 minutes. This HN thread also has example of people using caramelize as synonym for a quick Maillard reaction.
Because Tom Scocca doesn't explain the language being unknowingly used in different ways, his article actually adds to the confusion instead of clarifying the misunderstanding. By focusing his text on being snarky instead of educating the reader, he actually doesn't even answer the "why" question in the title!
EDIT reply to : >This is a fib, not a language problem. I don't believe that most of these recipe writers are using 5 minute onions themselves. It takes 40m to make the onions good. It's not hard. You can do it in advance. They know the difference and they do not serve the inferior version.
In this HN thread, a poster[1] tried to "prove" that caramelization can be done in 10 minutes by linking a video from a 20-year veteran chef that was professionally trained at the California Culinary Academy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt_0e72fs9M
And then you have random commenters exclaiming, "it takes me 45 minutes to 3 hours to caramelize onions. How did you break the laws of physics to get it done in 10 minutes?"
Those 2 contradictory statements are about different language usage and not about lies.