I'm not sure how you can charge 250 euros a plate and come out at a loss. It would be interesting to see their books, but I'm guessing that loafer lightener at 400 dollars/month is involved.
The important thing here is wines because yes you can find menu for that price but wine list that is meant to go hand in hand with the menu usually doubles the price.
Alinea is at number 21 btw.