Yes there are millions of plugins, and millions of themes and if you really now what you're doing it's a powerful CMS system that can look/feel how you like. But I've always found doing simple things to be fiddly (more often than not I've had to resort to hacking php), page response times are slow and adding your own themes requires expertise. Which you got to do otherwise it just looks like a theme, as polished as it might be.
What I really want to do is just write my own html from scratch. However then you gotta use some kind of webapp framework to handle page components, provide templating etc which has it's own overhead of course.