The quest to create quality chocolate for a country obsessed with Cadbury (2017)
qz.com
qz.com
Cadbury is the reason why the EU, unlike the US, allows chocolate to be adulterated with up to 5% margarine. If the Germans, Italians or French had their way, only pure cocoa butter could be used, and by that standard Cadbury could not be legally be sold in the EU as "chocolate", so the British put their veto.
Now that Brexit has happened, I keep hoping the EU will reverse that travesty but I guess industrial chocolate makers have gotten used to the profits from selling mockolate for the price of chocolate and are resisting going back to proper standards.
That's supposed to be the butryic acid content. I don't know if Americans are just so used to it that they don't really notice but Hershey's smells just a little bit like vomit which is, I'd say, "a dramatic turn for the worse" for sure.
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2010/jan/25/cadbur...
That said I'm still uneasy about allowing the sale of a British company with over a hundred years of years of history to a massive foreign conglomerate.
Americans both make good chocolate and have ready access to good foreign chocolate, which is in pretty much every grocery store. Many Americans are habituated to low-quality chocolate, or particular products where low-quality chocolate is a component but the quality of the chocolate doesn't particulary stand out because of nuts, salt, caramel, nougat, etc.
It actually does require some measure of climate control. It does melt in non climate controlled warehouses and trucks in the summer months. It's a pain to handle chocolate at the distribution level.
Hersheys and other candy bars are like fast food- ubiquitous but far, far away from being our only or best options.
Why do Americans eat so much Hershey's? I have no idea. Why do they buy ice cream stripped of milk fat, filled with air, and thickened with gum? Most don't know what they're missing I guess.
I suspect because of a penchant to substitute quantity for quality. I make my own vanilla ice cream...with no sugar. Just pure cream, a little whole milk, egg yolks, and vanilla, cooked as a custard. Lots and lots of vanilla. It is extremely rich and decadent, I can't find a comparable ice cream anywhere else.
It is also obscenely expensive compared to any retail ice cream, though I can easily afford it; the vanilla (or its extract if I'm in a hurry) is the most expensive part per gram, but that cream gets spendy as well when compared to store bought brands. I only make it once a month because it is so flavorful that eating it more often turns it into a less pleasant experience, because it can get cloying when tasted too frequently. I can easily see why anyone who makes ice cream a frequent dessert or snack food will gravitate towards far cheaper and less flavor-packed alternatives.
I moved to Sweden before Cadbury’s was sold, I wasn’t aware that Cadburys had been sold when I came back to the UK for a visit.
I genuinely thought that the chocolate had been “re-melted”. You know that waxy taste when chocolate has been out in the sun too much and hardened again and that’s happened a few times?
So, I chalked it up to a bad batch or that the store had stored it incorrectly.
To my horror the same was true of the chocolate in the airport when I was going home.
So; it’s not a placebo; I didn’t know, I only know because I complained to my Mum and she explained what happened later.
If you have a chance to try Fazer chocolate then try it (sometimes stylized as Karl Fazer).
Will check though, I'm visiting Scotland next weekend. :)
I am not sure which came first, moving their factory out to continental Europe or sold to Kraft. But the quality definitely dropped. May be "quality" isn't the right word from a QA perspective. But they definitely tasted different. And it wasn't a one off thing either. It changed a few times over the years. Probably before Kraft, after Kraft and then Mondelez. There were even some Cadbury from Poland that I think was owned by Lotte from South Korea. Or something like that. And it taste very different.
It is similar story with Heinz Ketchup and bake beans. They keep saying they are the same.
Besides the general drop in quality (palm oil etc) they got rid of popular products or changed their recipes. They still have a reduced but big share but other brands get all the respect.
So there is a history of changing things and not saying.
That all said, I find coca cola tastes different depending upon location of production. Personally I found the south African cola tastes better, then Canadian and was able to blind taste them. So hardly not all brands are that verbatim across production lines globally and if a production line is moved, so does it's sourced ingredients more so as well as quality of aforementioned ingredients. Equally, local regulation may also play into those small changes.
But then wine from different years, from the same production run/winery will taste different and that is probably the best example of how ingredient changes, however small, play a big factor in the end product.
Though an easy one to test for yourself, get cola form same area - plastic bottle, can and glass bottle and blind taste for yourself and see if you can notice the difference. It is one I could do, though not done for a while and yet was so standout.
I will add that the diet version of the drinks do somewhat not lend themselves to such taste differences and talking fall fat sugar variations of cola here.
I will concur from my observations, the sugar as well as the water used for production, do seem to be the dicerning factors in varaition.
Indeed, I saw one of their "Buttons" products recently, which didn't even say "chocolate" on the front - I presume because the cocoa content was so low they wouldn't be allowed to claim that.
American has plenty of good chocolate! Here's an article listing a whole slew of craft chocolatiers: https://www.foodandwine.com/lifestyle/best-chocolate-shops-a...
Other than that, it's exceedingly easy to find Ghirardelli chocolate in particular in grocery stores, Wal-Mart, Target, Walgreens, etc. Many more options are available at high end and specialty stores like organic grocery stores. And, of course, there's always online ordering for the especially dedicated.
Besides all that, there are innumerable chocolate alternative craft candymakers catering to crowds that want alternative sweeteners, fats, etc. They're not really for me, but business seems to be going well for them.
Mostly I'm pushing back on the meme that Americans don't produce or appreciate good chocolate. They do, though bigco chocolate certainly has better market share, product placement, mind share, etc.
One thing I have noticed is that Cadbury in the UK is different from Cadbury in other Countries. I suspect they alter their recipes for the target climate - Cadbury in the UK melts if you look at it the wrong way, whereas Cadbury in Australia/NZ tends to do better in heat. Also they tend to have factories closer to their target destinations and they seem to have some trouble exactly replicating the conditions - perhaps background temperature, altitude, humidity, etc, also play a role.
Cadbury (UK version) is perfectly serviceable: it's sweet, milky/creamy, melts in the mouth and is relatively smooth. Some other chocolates may be better, but Cadbury is hardly bad at the price point. Contrast that to some cheap Lidl chocolate for example and it tastes rough and unblended, like all the components are there but they never came together.
But there's also a huge variety of high cocoa, low sugar bars available that are great tasting, not overly expensive, and not skimpy. Once you skip all the sugar and diary, the complexities of the cacao flavors come through so much stronger, and different chocolates can have very different flavor profiles. It's really a different product from the strongly sweetened chocolate bars. It's definitely true that chocolate snobbery is rampant, and its annoying (as you say, to each their own), but to dismiss the variety of dark, less sweet chocolates available as people having and axe to grind is a shame.
You are missing a wide range in between. I hate buttery fakeolat, I also am not interested in eating raw cacao beans (ie pure chocolate). Both are idiotic assaults on the tastebuds.
Never realized how good I had it in the Netherlands. The fakeolat is pretty rare (cheap, bottom of the barrel kid chocolat that no sane adult goes near) and the cacao purist I simply ignore.
Kinder Bueno is a good example of what I'm taking about. I know it has hazelnuts in. There's no bitter cocoa 'kick', just a sticky sweet taste. It's like chocolate for people who don't like the taste of chocolate.
As for Milka and Kinder, they’re not exactly high quality brands. Milka is even owned by Mondelez, same as Cadbury. They are not indicative of the quality of most European chocolate (in the same way that Hershey’s is in no way indicative of the quality of good American chocolatiers)
I’m confused with Lindt though. I’ve had plenty of their dark chocolate, from barely above milk-chocolate to 99% cacao solids, and none of it has ever had a distinct hazelnut flavour. I have to seriously ask: are you sure you know what hazelnut tastes like?
Given that (at least in the US) it isn't marketed as chocolate or a chocolate spread but as a “hazelnut spread with cocoa”, I’d say that's a bit of an understatement.
A quick summary is that the aftertaste is a chemical that's in vomit, so if you're not used to it in chocolate then the chocolate literally tastes of puke. But if you are used to it, from your childhood, then it tastes great. It's also the same chemical that gives parmesan cheese its pungency, so it's not like Americans are alone in liking it in their food.
tl;dr: acquired taste
Irish Dairy Milk is the best!
My wife’s family is Irish and I spend a lot of time there. Their Dairy Milk is much creamier, much like their milk. I think their blue top “full” milk is much closer to the old “gold top” we used to have here in the UK.
My in-laws will send over “care packages” of all my wife’s favourite things, Dairy Milk, Tayto Crisps, Red Lemonade and many other little treats.
If you don’t have the opportunity to visit Ireland (you should, it’s beautiful and the people are the best) you can buy Irish Dairy Milk online for delivery on sites catering for Irish expats so you can sample it.
If you want good chocolate in an Irish supermarket, I’d usually recommend either Lindt or the supermarket’s own brand (which is more often than not a rebranding of relatively decent European chocolate).
I wouldn't be surprised if it is creamier if they source their dairy locally. I miss gold top milk! I always try to buy butter from Ireland too, it tends to be richer in flavour.
The insanity of the current situation in the UK is that there is a sugar tax (I once got sugar-taxed on a sugar free drink), sweet snacks have been suffering from shrink-flation (or inflation if we're talking about a freddo), and yet, for all of these efforts there is still an obesity crisis. If there is going to be an obesity crisis anyway, it might as well be from nice food.
I noticed that Guinness is by far the best when you buy it in Ireland. Mainland Britain is second best, and then it seems to get worse the further out you get. There is not a nicer beer than a fresh hearty Guinness.
One example is french baking. Any good break or croissant is very hard to reproduce in some countries, like Thaïland or Australia, because of the climate. Temperature and humidity plays a huge role.
Also you can't source the same ingredients.
It never was as far as my base of comparison is concerned.
Maybe it got worse after the acquisition but by the chocolate standards set by the circumstances of my birthplace (Germany) and it's surroundings I was exposed to fantastic chocolate from an early age. My grandma only gave us Swiss chocolate for bdays/xmas.
It's simply what you know. Cadbury (or Mondelez) can't be blamed for offering a cheap product that somehow satisfies consumer expectations in their target markets.
If you want something comparable to Swiss chocolate by the brits then it's going to be Thorntons.
Waitrose No1 range is the only decent ostensibly British chocolate that immediately springs to mind
https://www.waitrose.com/ecom/shop/browse/groceries/waitrose...
and it's from Italy.
Locally made (Brazil) Hershey's is a lot better.
Its interesting to see the difference even within Lindt - you can buy tons of Lindt in EU and elsewhere, often for 50% of the Swiss price. But the taste is definitely subpar - the rich beautiful chocolatey flavors I can sense ie in the 70% salted one bought here in Switzerland are quite bland (but still fine when compared to ie Milka, Cadbury or many Belgian ones) when buying exactly same looking ones made ie in France or Germany (the only visible difference is really tiny fine print of Made in ...).
I don't care that much as long as the ingredients in the package are accurate. Especially if the competition is allowed to point out what makes their chocolate superior.
The point of the article is that it is challenging to get such people (nostalgic, traditional, and unimaginative) to consider genuinely gourmet chocolate. I don't think it has anything to do with differences between Cadbury's taste and that of the new products.
Cadburys tastes like slavery and dead orang-utans now.
I can’t comment on the quality but the Mondelez / Kraft takeover has certainly dented 3) and I’m reasonably sure the brand has suffered as a result.
https://www.greenandblacks.com.au/milk-chocolate
Bought by Cadbury years ago but they didn't mess with the recipe. There's no harsh aftertaste, smooth and balanced!