That misses his point. You can have too much sugar/salt/fat without eating a single "ultra" processed food. So if the root of the problem is sugar/salt/fat it doesn't simply follow that "ultra" processed food is the problem.
The point here is that they are essentially defining "ultraprocessed" as being full of salt, fat and sugar. I can go buy a frozen pizza at Trader Joe's that contains organic flour, yeast, tomatoes and cheese. Nutritionally identical to what I'd make at home. I can also grind sugar cane and wheat berries and churn butter in my kitchen to make a cake that is just as unhealthy as a Twinkie.