Encrypted upstream lookups. Responding to encrypted lookups made to themselves. Realtime threat protection via API. Quick toggle of blocks instead of rebuilding lists. Ability to quickly change blocking of individual devices. Decent Metrics.
Probably more.
But if you just want something with no web bling then there's other alternatives to dnsmasq which would be worth looking at which give some of the above features whilst keeping it commandline and manual blocklist building.
dnscrypt-proxy is wonderful, for example, and can do most of the stuff you can do in dnsmasq.
If I want metrics, I just open a browser and see what clients have been the noisiest, what’s being blocked a lot and so on. Generally I don’t even think about it.
I can easily see what domains are blocked in the web ui and see that Adobe products are trying to phone home so often and which clients are trying to resolve what domains.