EDIT: They do appear to make "simplified" 3D models available for download from their hub-part-specs pdf. I suspect with a high layer height like 0.3mm you could print replacements. I understand why they don't advertise this though.
EDIT: They do appear to make "simplified" 3D models available for download from their hub-part-specs pdf. I suspect with a high layer height like 0.3mm you could print replacements. I understand why they don't advertise this though.
As for 3D printing, I guess ABS could work (PLA can melt or become soft in the sun), but I can't imagine a hobbist grade printer producing a part that is comparably strong. The option would still be nice, though. Maybe you just need a prop for the theater, where weather is a non-issue, and being able to replace parts quickly is more important than longevity.
That being said the glass transition point of ABS plastic is 105'c, a little over boiling. I'm not worried about ABS from a thermoplastic perspective, although I am worried about long-term UV performance. I'd also be worried about thermal cycles and plants/mold as most 3D printed ABS will take on water.
I think you'd get a few years out of an ABS plastic component in these circumstances, more if you resin coat it or use acetone vapor smoothing, and start with a filament that has good UV resistance.
Either way I expect 3D printed components to be more expensive and otherwise worse than one manufactured by this company, but being able to repair stuff like this if you need to is important and it's not like you can just go to the hardware store and get a replacement one of these hubs.
By entry-level I mean able to be printed on the everymans Ender 3, <$300 printer with little expertise. There are of course dozens of exotic filaments you can print on a slightly more advanced machine and even that can be done for pretty cheap, <$500 perhaps if you have the expertise to upgrade an Ender and tune it properly.
The benefit injection molding has over printing in this case, is these parts might want to be redesigned to reduce sheering at the layer lines on the peg things.
I've had a greenhouse melt nursery pots left in it and they're made out of polypropylene, which has a glass temp 50C higher than ABS.
EDIT: the glass transition point of PP is -25C, vs ABS's 105c. I think you confused glass transition point with melting point, they're very different things. I think polypropylene will always be a bit soft, and will hold a shape that it's deformed into, it it hold that shape long enough.
I don't think it should be too surprising that 3D printing filaments can withstand similar characteristics to other outdoor plastics. One commonly used outdoor plastic is PVC which has a glass transition temp between PETG and ABS: PETG: 80c, PVC: 85c, ABS: 103c. If you left a PVC pipe in your greenhouse you wouldn't expect it to deform.