EDIT: I feel obligated to say this: pitchforks down, please. I'm not trying to disparage the macOS kernel. As a designer of software systems interested in how OSes are built, I found the choices taken interesting.
I... what?
https://support.apple.com/guide/security/signed-system-volum...
Which is to say, / under Catalina and above (so, since 2019), the root partition is really the mount of an APFS snapshot. There's security as a reason, but also from a system perspective, it makes it more robust to upgrade/downgrade OS versions under such a scheme because you always have a known-good system image to revert back to.
Safari though is a special case, and so /Applications/Safari.app is a symlink to ../System/Cryptexes/App/System/Applications/Safari.app
https://superuser.com/questions/1495124/read-only-file-syste...