edit: after some digging (which was a lot more involved than it should have been) it seems like the current state is:
There is free software to set and manage a pin for a yubikey on Linux. Firefox historically didn't support yubikeys with a pin, but it seems like that was recently merged. Yubikeys still have a 25 site limit per device, and no sync across devices. As long as sites let you register multiple yubikeys as a backup, and support pins, then it's a reasonable workflow. I'm not convinced it's better than passwords + a yubikey for 2fa, but it seems like in practice it's probably not worse either. It still feels like, even if security is a motivator here, there's a lot of opportunity for Google, Apple, and MS to conveniently and "accidentally" cut free software users out of being able to access a lot of the internet with the move to passkeys, and I remain skeptical.