I think it revolves around the fact that these days we can afford to go hi-fi and seek something like finesse at nearly everything. THis is usually a sign of filling some sort of a void because one needs to have the time, motivation, and energy to narrow yourself down in the array of products and options.
Some time ago, nobody could care less about the taste of water. It was just great if you got it from the tap and you didn't die of it, and even greater if you also got hot water from the same outlet. Water was water and the more pure and clean it was the less it tasted. Water doesn't in itself taste of anything.
Actually, in a lot of countries, the water of old was much better than anything sold in bottles. People had access to clean spring water --something that now costs $$$ to buy bottled.
Same for fruit/vegatables: there was a time (not that far for my country, around 30-40 years back), that you could find everywhere stuff that you have to know pay top dollar for as "organic".