I don't think this article is saying that "gas station wine" tastes as good as "fancy wine". It's not talking about quality. They're making the point that cheap wine can be good.

So yes junk wine is junk, but not all cheap wine is junk.

I do however expect for this particular instance, they spent a lot of time finding a particularly wonderful €3 wine - while the vast majority at this price probably are distinctly less good.