The one python pattern I used to use metaclasses for (registry types that keep an index of all their subclasses, very useful for DSL type tasks) is easier with __init_subclass__ and is somewhat more readable. So I haven't used metaclass in a minute.
The worst thing about metaclass is that 95% of python programmers look at it and just go "whuzzat?" and require a seminar to catch a clue. It's actively hostile to whoever maintains the code after you.